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| caferacer |
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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| TheSmiler |
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 TheSmiler World Chat Champion

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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

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 Posted: 23:38 - 18 Sep 2012 Post subject: Re: Work so far... |
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| caferacer wrote: | What do you think now? |
Err.. £100 for bike, £300 OTR... so £200 for all works...
I suspect you may be being a tad optimistic there.... but... we'll see.
Tyres... yup... good start... but old rusty wire-spoke-rims, I'd want to get them apart and be sure they were worth mounting anything else to before I bought the rubber.... MOT men like the 'excessive rust on wheel spokes' clause to fail something they aren't too happy with..... and steel rims rot from the inside.
But, after lots of patience with solvol and brush, you could get them looking OK, and may be lucky.
If not you will be hunting hard to find something to replace them with, trying to avoid around £30 for a new rim, £25 for a spoke set, and fretting whether you can DIY lace your own wheels, and keep it to £110.. or paying for a pro-build & true, that would, with rims & spokes cost around £150 a wheel or more.
Not going to mention wheel bearings or seals... we hope for the best and a pot of grease......
BUT, pair of 'Decent' tyres for that, will be something like a Mitchelin M45's, which with tubes and rim tape, will set you back about £100, probably a tad more.
So IF your wheels are good, JUST a decent set of tyres will rob half your budget..... £30 for an MOT and £15 for tax, will rob half of whats left...... so it doens't leave you much 'margin' for anything else to need attension... like the odd £10 for a new flasher unit, or a pair of fork gaiters, or any paint....
You might save a few pennies opting for budget rubber.... but you wont save a lot. Cheng-Shits or similar easter brands, in the sizes for that are around the £50-60 mark, for tyres only.... add your tubes and rim tape, you'll only be saving £30 or so.... which wont go very far to cover any as yet to be discovered nasties like hooked sprockets or a rusty tank that wont clean up and constantly gives you silty red petrol and clogged jets.
NOT trying to set you back, knock you down or put you off... BUT... dont get carried away in your optimism, and make sure them mechanicals are solid before spending any real money, and get them electrics de-niggled before presuming anything.
SO many projects die, in a pique of spaghetti, after engines been got running, but electrics wont play ball!
I did a Yam DT last winter.... (did a 125 Super-Dream winter before... I'm no newb to this game!) I stripped it to the frame in three days; dealing with all the stubborn rusty screws along the way. Major bits went to powder coaters; while I stripped and painted the pretty bits. That took me three weeks, and when the bits came back from the powder coaters, I had something that LOOKED like a freshly restored bike, back in one piece within a day....... Took three more months with it living in my living room to sort out all the niggly little bits and rewire the thing so that it had a full compliment of working 'equipment' for an MOT.....
The 'big' things... taking it all to bits, or putting it all back together, getting an engine running.... the things that get you exited and FEEL like you have accomplished something, usually aren't that difficult or time consuming.... it bogs down in the nitty gritty niggly stuff, where it goes slow, and you seem to get so little to show for it, and you start to find costs starting to escalate... and you have barely scratched the surface yet!
Old rule of thumb.... double the amount of time, space, money and hassle you think it will cost, double it again; and you MAY be close to what it will REALLY take....
Your initial hit list seems to put stuff in good order... does it run, look at the brakes, make sure it'll stop, look at the suspension, make sure it'll keep wheels on ground, and make sure them wheels have good tyres.... so promicing... but I do think the budget a tad optimistic, and your a little ambitiouse.
Otherwise... interesting. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| SnowTigeress |
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 SnowTigeress Brolly Dolly
Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 23:50 - 18 Sep 2012 Post subject: Re: Work so far... |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

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 SnowTigeress Brolly Dolly
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| caferacer |
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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| Matt- |
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 Matt- World Chat Champion
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| blurredman |
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 blurredman World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 18:35 - 21 Sep 2012 Post subject: |
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Yay for the 205! ____________________ CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k. |
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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 19:17 - 21 Sep 2012 Post subject: |
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That look likes 1 big bag of sh!t!!
Hear me out though, you will learn so much about your bike and bikes in general rebuilding that, doesn't really matter (within reason) what it costs to get it working again - sense of satisfaction will be enormous.
Best of luck with the project, keep the thread updated.  ____________________ Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1 |
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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 Posted: 19:28 - 21 Sep 2012 Post subject: Update |
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I wish I'd taken more photos of the bits I've done now, if anyone needs any help I'm probably the wrong person to ask but I'd be more than willing to try and help in any way I can.
As I think I mentioned above - another cost was the £10 I forked out for the original owners manual. I couldn't believe the lack of info on the web - owners of the RS are clearly tight as ! so I've got all the wiring diagrams and specs for the bike if anyone needs them - just ask and I'll upload.
Last edited by caferacer on 14:07 - 04 Oct 2014; edited 1 time in total |
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 SnowTigeress Brolly Dolly
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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 Posted: 21:03 - 22 Sep 2012 Post subject: Update |
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 symonh2000 Crazy Courier
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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| Pol Anorl |
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 Pol Anorl Banned

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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

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 Posted: 01:36 - 24 Sep 2012 Post subject: |
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Honda - CB 125 RS
1983-1986
https://www.motorbikespecs.net/images/Honda/CB_125_RS_83-86/CB_125_RS_83-86_1.jpg
Brakes
Front: Disc
Rear: Drum
Dimensions
Length: 1,960 mm (77.2 in)
Width: 745 mm (29.3 in)
Height: 1,070 mm (42.1 in)
Wheelbase: 1,285 mm (50.6 in)
Dry Weight: 100 kg (220 lbs
Fuel Capacity: 11.0 litre
Electrics
Voltage 12v
Spark Plugs (Iridium) NGK DR8EIX
Engine
Type Air Cooled 4 Stroke SOHC Single
Bore x Stroke 56.5 x 49.5 mm (2.224 x 4.335 in)
Compression Ratio 9.2 : 1
Displacement 124 cm2 (7.53 cu in)
Lubrication System 0.8 litre
Transmission
Sprocket front 16
Sprocket rear 36
Chain Number of Links 108
Misc.
Motorcycle Style ROADSTER
Tyres
Front: 275-18 Tubed
Rear: 300-18 Tubed
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bike was a revamp of the earlier CB125S & CB125J of the mid '70's, using the faithful little Overhead cam single, which had been deemed rather 'fragile' tuned to the extent it was in the early drum braked 125S, to deliver 12bhp. The 'Street-Scrabler' variant of the 125S, the SL was slightly de-tuned to 11bhp and provided the basis for the later, 'bullet-proof' as long as they got thier oil changed XL125 Dirt-Bike, from which Honda took the engine to motorvate the CB125RS.
Its related to the CG125, in as far as that was essentially the original 125S, fitted with retro-tech push-rod engine, delivering 10bhp, for 'developing' markets.
But the 125RS was a 'little gem'. More powerful throughout the rev range, and lugging 15-25Kg less mass than a CG (depending on variant), was a very much more 'spritely' little device with slightly more composed suspension.
The 125 Super-Dream only had slightly more power, but was lugging around 25Kg more mass to get it. It was the 'faster' bike, though point to point there would not be much between them on anything but a fast sweeping A-Road. Super-Dream with more sophisticated mono-shock suspension, more powerful twin piston front brake, and that howling 12,ooo rpm motor would be a little more 'composed' doing it.... while a CG would need a brave or stupid rider to try and keep them in sight, his engine lacking the 'urgency' hauling out of corners, and wheezing when stretched to higher speeds, and getting VERY bouncy through corners..... Only time a CG was likely to go past either the 125RS or 'Duper-Dream was on the way into a corner..... with smoke coming off the inefectual front drum brake.....
A 125 Super-Dream, in decent state is good for a genuine, 70+mph. I have had one up to 70 two-up, and 75, solo, on GPS snail-trails.
The 125RS is probably only a couple of points off for top speed. Its certainly a 70mph motorcycle.
The CG125, is really only 'good' for 65, and favorable conditions that would see it much beyond that, would also benefit a125Rs or 'Dream.
The genuine article Honda CG125, is probably slightly quicker than any of the (chinese) copies it has spawned, and they PROBABLY are in the majority of modern 4-stroke bikes on offer today.......
Which really only leaves a handful of Japanese or European four-strokes for it to square up to.
Yamaha YBR125? Pretty good comparison. Yamaha's answer to the CG125, with its overhead cam SR engine..... 11bhp, claimed 70mph top speed, and 125Kg......
Its actually 'faster' at least on paper than the Honda CBF, which with a claimed 12bhp only manages a claimed 65mph.
The Water-Cooled, four valve CBR125, boasts more power, and a little more speed. On paper the full A1 complient compliment of 14.5bhp, and 72mph...... but carrying as much mass as the old CB125 Super-Dream.
The CBR on paper is within a smidgin of the Yamah YZF-R125, and that powers the Riaju, Derbi & Aprillia four strokes I believe.
There ISN'T a HUGE difference between any of them for performance, and that 70mph top speed, is all VERY condition dependent.... condition of the bike, AND road conditions!
That little 125RS.... its got the 'potential' to cut it with the modern kiddie-go-kwik bikes......
The 'old' Super-Dream, certainly has, and point to point, applying 30 odd years of experience to the job, have left some 'young-turks' on plastic-fantastics shrinking in my mirrors down the lanes.....
On the public road.... the differences in rider skill or stupidity, will almost always be FAR greater than the differences in bikes capability. A complete nutter on a 250 Super-Dream can go faster than Mr Cautiouse on a Hyabusa, for as long as he don't come off!
But between the four-stroke 125's, the capabilities are SO close you don't need to have THAT big a disparity in rider ability or prudence!
That little 125RS? specs are enough to put it at the table for sure. It may not have the bigger power number, but it does have a relatively big advantage in that VERY low weight.
But missing the point, this bike was ALWAYS about cheap thrills.....
Super-Dream was built to match the two-stroke sports bikes on performance and beat them on sophistication.
CG125 was built to match the two-stroke commuters for low cost, total utilitarian transport.
CB125RS was built to deliver a compromise between the two.
Nearly thirty years on? It's a pretty good place to start a project. That twin-shock rear suspension is simple and durable and easy to overhaul. The single piston brake, likewise useful. Forks conventional. Motor, rugged, and easy to work on.
And CafeRacer is starting in the right place tackling the bits that matter most, making sure it will stop, steer and handle.
If the motor hasn't got gummed rings or need a rebore, or a flat cam, or hammered tappets.... little fettling ought to see it find its old sparkle well enough, and the ingredients are all there, for it to have the potential to do its job, and offer a LOT of fun for not a lot of dosh.
Certainly more fun thrashing an old bike you have built, to within an inch of its life, thinking "Whey-Hey! I made it do this!.... I hope it doesn't blow up! What the HECK.... I can rebuild it if it does!" and taking another handful of throttle stretching the cable a bit more tryng to find some extra go.....
Than..... sitting on a plastic fantastic, going into a corner a bit hot, and thinking "Oh PLEASE dont let me drop it! PLEASE dont let me drop it! I CANT AFFORD to DROP IT!"
And of course.... sods law says... you thrash that little single, waiting for it to go 'pop'... it will keep on going..... terrified of cracking the plastic on an R125? Well, Murphey ENT going to let THAT opportunity for mischief pass him by very long!
I really want to see this bike on the road.... another derelict finding redemption. Another owner discovering the joy of creating what they ride.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cafe? Indicators & stuff? much of a much, usually one bolt fitting, and where there's a will there's a way!
Front forks & headlamp stays? Universal ones can usually be packed out with strips of rubber cut from the old inner tunes you take out of them old tyres!
BUT here and now, multimeter, get the wiring all buzed out, clean all the contacts and connectors in the switches and everything; make sure your flasher is working, and that earths are earthing....
That is where the attension to detail will pay off, and reliability is most likely to be found. Wiring is a nif-naff niggling ball-ache that takes lots of time, and sees little progress, but well worth the effort.
If it has the Super-Dream tail lamp.... plastic casing with metal tube bulb holder.... DRILL through the casing, and put an M4 bolt through to make a direct earthing point, and solder it in place. Original earting arrangement is an ABORTION!
DONT be tempted to use generic crimp connectors for halfords ANYWHERE.... on old oxidised wire, its a recipe for faults and failures and the connector force is so often greater than the crimp force that they pull straight back off the wire anyway!
Go to Vehicle Wiring Products and order a couple of bags of 'Japanese standard' bullet connectors and sockets, and the insulation for them; get a good butane soldering iron and SOLDER them on where needed to get good electrical AND mechanical joints.
Get a roll of green wire and some ring terminals too, to make up 'garanteed' earth returns to the battery, from the common earthing point in the head-lamp, the chassis earth, and the 'one wire' components like the indicators... just saves answering SO many silly questions later! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 symonh2000 Crazy Courier
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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| Pol Anorl |
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 Pol Anorl Banned

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 Posted: 22:01 - 24 Sep 2012 Post subject: |
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Oh god! teffers is having a mini stroke looking at this thread, his heads working overtime! a thread about cb125s, get 5 replacement keyboards at the ready for when he wears off the keys replying. ____________________ GOOD GAME BODYGUARD: https://i.imgur.com/8WePGgf.jpg
20:30:37 Pyro.: I don't sort of like men, I take every advantage to choke on dick.
Jewlio Iglesias: You live in Liverpool - Chances are, the front door has already been kicked off the hinges |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 22:06 - 24 Sep 2012 Post subject: Re: Thanks :) |
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| caferacer wrote: | I was just thinking it's getting cold, I should really install some form of heating in my house.. but you have reminded me why the bike is in the living room!!! This is more important right? Please explain this to my gf! |
Dear Miss CafeRacer's Girlfreind,
In response to above.
In winter, bikes belong in the living room. Look:-
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/odds%20and%20sods/Bike293.jpg
If you get cold, you can start the engine, and warm your hands on the cylinder!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/104_0028.jpg
But it is ESPECIALLY important if you are working on electrics, as metal density changes with temperature, and this effects all the resistance readings you get, if they are out-side being wind-chilled.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1659.jpg
And Painted parts DO have to be hung in the KITCHEN... where you can put the oven on to help keep them warm and cure the paint properly.... you will appreciate this, especially if you have no central heating!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/104_0225.jpg
It is also quite convenient, to be able to just pic up a part and be able to fettle it in the comfort of your own living room, without having to dress for the occassion.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1044.jpg
The dining room table is also a most excellent work top for those more intricate little jobs, like reconditioning a speedo assembly, overhauling a drum brake, or fitting new seals to a brake caliper. Its clean, its flat, its well lit and close to power sockets.
You NEED to appreciate these things. They are important, and NOT in any way 'unusual'.
And lets be honest here; he's a bloke. If he has to mess around, I'm sure you would MUCH rather have him messing around with motorbikes than anything else.
BUT IN THE LIVING ROOM!
Ah! Hold on a second... think about it! Its for YOUR convenience NOT his!
Where else would he mess around with his motorbike?
At his mums? In the shed at the bottom of the garden? Round his mates?
In the living room, you have 100% supervision and complete 'Nag' access! You can SEE what he's up to and have no need to be suspiciouse that when he tells you he's JUST trying to sort out his big end... he really is..... and isn't knocking back a couple more pints with Steve, down the pub!
You KNOW it makes sense!
Though you MAY like to take note that the person playing with bits of old Honda 125 in all these 'photos.... is a woman.
You see... messing with motorbikes ISN'T just for boys. girls CAN play too!
So, you dont have to grumble you aren't spending enough time together... he's RIGHT THERE... where you can see him.... getting in the way.....
And rather than moaning that you never DO anything together... you can just pick up a spanner and 'help'.
Snowie is a WONDERFUL 'help'..... she took my 750 to bits!
I didn't actually WANT it taking to bits... but hey, its the thought that counts, isn't it!
And no, you dont have to ride on the back of 'That THING' when he's done... its not very comfy, and he'll probably be on L-Plates anyway..... but, well....
When it's done, the living room will seem VERY empty...... so, opportunity for YOU to get a little project like this, and help HIM.....
Then you will BOTH have little bikes, and you can keep an eye on him even when he's 'out for a ride'......
See, it ALL makes sense. There is a certain 'order' to the universe, and within that order, MOTORBIKES definitely BELONG in the LIVING ROOM!
Yours sincerely,
Teflon Mike
_____________________________________________________
Hows that Caf? Do the trick?
Well...... If you shift a Super-Dream engine, can always make a bed up in my caravan.... its got a heater..... just might need some gas!
| caferacer wrote: | Quick shot in the dark - does anyone have a shell for a CG 5.5" Headlight unit?[/b] The one that came with mine is cracked and I can't find one online! |
Repair the crack! Plastic or metal? If plastic - plastic weld. If metal, see if you can get it brazed. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 caferacer Nova Slayer

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 TheSmiler World Chat Champion

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 13 years, 99 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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