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Inspecting a reg/rec on a cbr 125 04 EDIT: started charging?

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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Inspecting a reg/rec on a cbr 125 04 EDIT: started charging? Reply with quote

Worked out that the battery isn't being charged, so I'm guessing this could be down to the alternator or reg/rec.


Do not currently have a multi-meter so just doing a visual inspection today, heard I'm looking for burn marks on the connector?


Problem is, where is the reg/rec on this bike? Any help on doing this or diagnosing the problem would be greatly appreciated. Karma given.
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Last edited by Clutchy on 19:15 - 26 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Casper
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy for the reg/rec to fuck up without melted wires. You need a meter. Could be down to a shite earth though or your battery is not holding charge. Go and buy a meter. You will bet a good digital one at B & Q for under 10 quid.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, Reg/Rec is in the front left just in front of the engine.

Here's a pic to help:

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/loc.jpg

And for when you get your multimeter:

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/diag.jpg

HTH. Thumbs Up
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 Will do, thanks.

Aff quite possibly the most helpful post I've had on bcf thanks so much! Couldn't find anything on google. Oh checked the main fuse and it had a 25 amp fuse in instead of the 30? Changed to 30 now, doubt it will make a difference, just odd is all.

Manual says 30 amp too
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CarlosCBR
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im not sure how accurate that picture is, when i had both of my 2005 CBR125s, the reg/rec was behind the RHS tail fairing.

However if you have a different year (post 2010) then you may have to disregard what i have said.

Only eectrics down the left hand side of my engines were the neutral switch iirc.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you do get a multimeter this will be your bible:

https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same model as yours carlos, I remember seeing it in one of your threads.


Went to B&Q asked if they had any multimeters, asked 4 girls none of them knew what it was.

Went up to a bloke who worked there and said 'thank god, a bloke, at least you'll know what this simple tool is, do you have any multimeters'

To which he replied 'what's one of them?'

Me and my mate burst out laughing and just walked out.

Halfrauds are a lot more knowledgeable all round.


Tah for the link mate. Karma
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Casper
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutchy wrote:
Same model as yours carlos, I remember seeing it in one of your threads.


Went to B&Q asked if they had any multimeters, asked 4 girls none of them knew what it was.

Went up to a bloke who worked there and said 'thank god, a bloke, at least you'll know what this simple tool is, do you have any multimeters'

To which he replied 'what's one of them?'

Me and my mate burst out laughing and just walked out.

Halfrauds are a lot more knowledgeable all round.


Tah for the link mate. Karma


I find that as fucking shocking. I take it you got one.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indeed I do, £20 from halfrauds
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Casper
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutchy wrote:
Indeed I do, £20 from halfrauds


Ouch

https://www.diy-spares.com/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=1664422&query=fldhandtools+fldtestmeters
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Useless people!
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Aff
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 01 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

CarlosCBR wrote:
Im not sure how accurate that picture is, when i had both of my 2005 CBR125s, the reg/rec was behind the RHS tail fairing.


My bad, could have sworn the Manual I had was 2004, will have to amend it's title. Thumbs Up
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 02 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update:




Checked the bikes current leakage came in at 37 mA so that's good.


Tested again, the batt terminals to see if there was 13.7-14.5 v while idling, came in at 12.4v so there's definitely no charge.

Visually inspected wires all around the bike and the ones that go into the reg/rec they seemed fine, found a snapped earth near the front R indicator, pushed them back together, made no difference.

Then followed the wires from the alternator to the reg/rec and one of the box's (not sure what to call it) the black one in the Aff's pic looked a bit shitty so tried to clean that up, along with any connectors concerning the reg/rec connectors. No burnt connectors going into the reg/rec.

Monday I'll test the reg/rec and see if that's broken.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 02 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just remembered, when checking to see if the batt was being charged, there was no change in voltage up to 5500 rpm but around 6k plus the battery voltage across the terminals suddenly dropped to around 8/9 volts. Is that just the reg/rec protecting the batt from being over charged at high revs? Neutral
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Casper
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 02 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me like the reg/rec is goosed. My old GS did the same with no charge and voltage drop at higher revs.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 02 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^Agree about reg/recs being finicky in death. I had one that showed correct charging voltage when the bike was first started. After a few mins it would stop charging. I switch off the ignition and back on and it would start charging again. I'll add that I'd checked the stator's output (3phase system) and it was within limits.

It seems reg/recs are a very common failure on all types of bikes, so much so I installed a LED that glows green when getting charged and red when it isn't. At least it would give me enough time to limp off a motorway or maybe get home.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered a used reg/rec for a tenner and stator/coils for 30, hoping it's just the reg but at 30 notes I had to get the mag thing aswell, how are they to fit?
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutchy wrote:
Ordered a used reg/rec for a tenner and stator/coils for 30, hoping it's just the reg but at 30 notes I had to get the mag thing aswell, how are they to fit?


Piece of piddle.

Once you've got the engine cover off, you should be able to see what's what.

The hardest thing will be getting the rotor off. Not only contains a fuck-off magnet but you need to lock the crank up when trying to remove the bolt from the middle.

Various methods exist, from making tools out of bits of wood or metal. to hold the rotor in place (it should have some handy M4 holes drilled it in) to sticking the bike in first and standing on the rear brake.

Having a friend around will help just to steady the bike as you'll prolly need to apply a huge amount of force to get the bolt off.

And when it's off, try to pull the rotor off straight out, or wiggle it gently. DO NOT be tempted to start levering things with screwdrivers, you'll either damage the rotor, crack bits off the crankcase or cause some other damage.

Haynes manual contains some useful info.

HTH Thumbs Up
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 14 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
The hardest thing will be getting the rotor off. Not only contains a fuck-off magnet but you need to lock the crank up when trying to remove the bolt from the middle.


I don't believe the rotor needs removing to replace the alternator on the CBR125. Should bolt straight on to the engine cover:
https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/captura_de_pantalla_2013-02-13_a_la_s__23.17.21.png

Edit: unless OP actually means the rotor rather than the stator...
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 14 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a side note... I have a copy of the CBR125 (old shape) workshop manual if you need it (PDF). If you do, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll email it over to you Thumbs Up
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 14 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
On a side note... I have a copy of the CBR125 (old shape) workshop manual if you need it (PDF). If you do, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll email it over to you Thumbs Up


Thanks, just downloaded one though anyway. Don't believe ill be removing the rotor.

Will post tomorrow if I have to change the alternator, still hoping for reg/rec.
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*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhhhhhggghhhh!!!!!!!

Just put in the new reg/rec and it hasn't made a fucking difference!

Any other ideas before I attempt to change the stator/alternator
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where abouts are you located?

Check the output from the reg/rec. So have reg/rec plugged in to stator but unplugged from wiring loom. Start bike. Measure output from reg/rec using a multimeter on DC volts.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Essex-ish/London. Updated the map now.

JM can you shed some light on this possibly?

Test for charging issues:

Step 5 - Generator Leakage Current Test
Disconnect the wire harness from the generator stator to the RR (Regulator Rectifier unit). Set the meter to measure OHMS, and probe into the open end of the block connector. Measure the resis- tance from any of the generator stator wires to the frame ground (battery -VE). A reading of less than about 10kOhms indicates damaged insulation in the stator winding, which often is indicative of a shorted turn fault at engine running temperatures. A reading of greater than 10kOhms does not actu- ally prove the generator is good, but a lower reading always indicates an insulation problem.


On the multimeter before anything is connected up, (this is on the OHMS setting) it shows 1 as you would expect, however, when doing what step 5 says, I don't actually get a change of ready on any of the connectors, and it remains unchanged on the screen (at 1). Is this showing completely fucked Stator then?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your doing the test right and have the meter on the correct setting, then it means you have a break in the circuit.

Test its continuity. Will most likely be a little diode symbol on the multimeter, with a sound symbol next to it (like the windows volume symbol or the android Wifi symbol)

If your getting continuity I would say you're on the wrong setting on the multimeter.

If you don't then you have a problem somewhere which will probably come apparent when you take it apart. Either a break around the plug or a serious breakdown in the stator wires insulation.
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The last post was made 13 years, 135 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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