Looking at buying a 2001 cbr 900 rr ( been sorn for a while)

[clancy]

Just wOndered if anyone has any tips on things to look for With them ? Any common issues or faults or tell tale signs of previous ones?

And any advice from previous owners

Thanks for any help, leigh
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KLX 300r

[polar]

get one

[steady eddie]

Have a look here

https://www.cbrfirebladers.co.uk/

and here

https://www.fireblades.org/forums/

happy reading
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Fz50>Ts185>Rd125Lc>Cb250n Superdream "Deluxe" (!)>Kmx200>Tdr250>Yzf600 Thundercat>
Current bikes: 1997 Fireblade RRV & 1989 KMX200

[clancy]

thanks for the links buddy just been reading through there its been helpfull

only thing is, the bike in question is at a dealership with warrenty, however appart from the past few week since they have had it there it was sorn and hasnt been riden since 2008 (owner was unfit to use it in that time and his since given it to the garage, they are family i believe).

so essentially it hasnt been used in 4 years or so, should i be wary of anything that could cause ? are there any issues that could be caused through it not being used for a few years? it does come with warrenty and a new mot and service just trying to cover all my bases before part exchanging my very tidy bike

thanks, leigh
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KLX 300r

[Benson_JV]

[clancy]

Tyres are a very good point, do not want to be riding a bike that's more than twice the power of my current one with useless tyres

As for the service he said it would be oil and filter, just been motd so obviously brakes etc are ok. Chain and sprocket were done pretty much just before it got sorn
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KLX 300r

[The Tot]

Get a brew on! - shamelessly linked from a similar question. Mine's on 44k miles

So, my comprehensive list on what to look out for if you're buying an RRY-RR1

Regulator Rectifier - make sure that this and the alternator and battery are in good working order. If any one of the components is out of kilter, then you are in a nightmare situation. I was unfortunate with mine in that my alternator blew, so I had it rewound with a new reg rec and battery. I noticed that my Yuasa battery only lasted a year, so bought another replacement yuasa. 6 months later, the alternator and reg rec went again, taking the battery. So, to avoid the problem ever happening again, get a MOSFET shindingen reg rec (from an 09 R1), and bypass your wiring loom entirely so that your charging system goes directly between your battery, alternator and reg rec. Presumably I had a bad earth somewhere or a faulty loom that was causing a huge drain on charging!

Total Cost £800 when you include the fact I had to get 3 reg-recs,3 batteries and 2 rewound alternators + labour. All in a matter of 20k miles over 18 months!

Suspension - Look for a receipt for a suspension overhaul, both for front forks and rear shock. By 35-40k miles, it would be way past it! I was bottoming my forks out on relatively moderate A roads and it started wallowing about. Any suspension specialist such as MCT will sort it out for £500 odd and get it set up for your riding style. I had mine done at HM racing which included K tech springs front and rear to replace the worn OEM items and set up for A/B roads

Total Cost - £750 - That was all parts, labour and set up at HM racing. Turned it around in 2 days

Discs - 330mm discs are brilliant stoppers, but are known to warp. Mine warped at 32k miles. Rode them in winter mind. So saying that, take the opportunity to get a set of braking/galfer wavy discs and pads from calsport for cheaper than OEM replacement.

Total cost - £420 including fitting

Head bearings - Replace the ball bearings in your headstock with needle race bearings and you out to see a service life of 20k miles. I've had to replace mine twice in the time I've owned her, so they're about £80 quid including fitting. At your sort of mileage, be sure you've had them done within 10k miles.

Total cost - £160

Clutch and Camchain Tensioner - I used to commute in and around London, so I was pretty heavy on the clutch. OEM item went within 30k, so be sure you've had a replacement clutch put in, or budget for one. The CCT was replaced at 30k at the same time for good measure since it was starting to rattle pretty badly.

Total cost - £400

That's an exhaustive list of what I had done to my bike as part of "wear and tear" and normal operation. Considering I put close to 30k miles on her in 2 and a half years, with extensive use in winter and commuting in london, it was bound to take it's toll. I haven't accounted for tyres and chain and sprockets. My C&S kits usually last me a good 20k miles. Dunlop roadsmarts last 8k on the front and 6k on the rear.

Issues I've had with mine were a faulty cam position sensor - The sensor itself cost £140, but it required 5 hours to diagnose the fault so it was a bloody expensive fix in the end! So, if you notice that when you turn the bike on, you have no engine warning lights, the fuel pump primes, but you can't start it despite having full charge, then likelihood is that your cam sensor/cam pulse generator has gone.

I've had a few dodgy earths that have left me stranded as well!

So long and short is that if you're buying a bike from that era - RRY or RR1, you might be liable to electrical problems. If the bike has been kept outside for most of its life, then you WILL expect these problems. Don't take it from me, ask any "reputable" honda workshop. Mine's an extreme case, but even the guys at bransons in gloucester have started taking bets as to when I'm going to kill the bike!

Other useful mods include the following

PCIII and pipe - the 16 bit ECU is a bit snatchy at low speeds and it likes to hunt between 2-3k in 1st and 2nd gear. Pretty irritating when filtering. Get those items fitted and it'll mean smooth running.

Balance your throttle bodies every 20k miles to bring back the smoothness in your throttle response.

OEM Honda nissan pads work the best for the brakes. They work better than after market items, and are a tenna cheaper than EBC HH's at bransons!

Hope this helps!
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[clancy]

Thankyou mate that was very usefull indeed! Seems you had a bit of bad luck with your bike haha

The One im looking at has only covered 11k miles so a few things won't apply but usefull to know what to look out for
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KLX 300r

[The Tot]

Well, I just used mine a lot, and mostly in winter. But first thing to check is any age related issues. The 929 blade is a good handling backing, but just because it's done 11k miles doesn't mean that it'll need work doing. Like you said, a fresh service will do it good, but please bear in mind batch-related issues that might need addressing later down the like through use.

Bransons honda did say to me that electrical issues have dogged 929's and 954's in the past, and the issues that I've encountered were probably the worst you can get, but that's not to say that mine was an isolated case. I just happened to have them happening one after another.

Electrics is the honda's Achilles heel!
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[clancy]

Yeah I understand thankyou for your help, Hondas downfall is definitely electrics I had reg/rec and battery issues on my current one last year
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KLX 300r

[Noxious89123]

[Clutchy]

[The Tot]

Mine went well beyond the 3x reg rec and alternators.

I had quite a few earth faults on the bike that left it stranded. And when sensors start going pop, such as the case of the cam position sensor, which again is a known issue for FI CBR's <2005, you're often left stuffed without any indication/fault codes.

Hondas, not as reliable as you may think! I've had the blade on the back of an AA van 4 times, and all of those times it was electrics in general, not just the reg/rec/charging issue.

Saying that, the bike is currently SORN because I'm waiting for a new battery! I forgot to stick it on the optimate and kept doing lots of short journeys in winter! So I've gone through my 4th Yuasa battery in as many years!
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism