Sand blasting to remove rust?

[loply]

Hi folks,

I bought my dad a compressor for some airbrushing for christmas, and am considering buything the following:

https://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=SV5IYMXQDDQV3CJO2C1SJ0Q?id=94223&ts=02898

In order to remove rust from my bike, and other items. Parts of my bike that are rusty include side stand, fairing mounts, horn, etc. Nothing like the frame or forks, just perhiperals.

Anyway what I want to know is:

Whats the difference between Aluminium Oxide beads, and Glass beads? Whats best for my needs?

Annd... will a 1.5hp/6.3cfm/170ltrm/115psi compressor be enough?

Also, can you recollect and reuse the shot if you do it into a clean cabinet of some kind?
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[loply]

Oh, and MERRY CHRISTMAS
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Sparks!]

[loply]

haha, no honestly, and he gave me some money so now im deciding how to spend it... =P
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Big Pete]

aluminium oxide is coarser, harder abrasive, ok for steel, not good on ally. The glass beads are softer and are excellent on ally.

Yes you can colect the abrasive and reuse it, but you really need to do it inside a cabinet with a clear window and a pair of built in gloves.

The specs for the gun should give a cfm requirement which you can compare against your compressor, however, if you have a big air receiver (storage tank) you can use the gun in short bursts even if your compressor is marginal.
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Trust me, I`m an engineer
GarageOfPower.co.uk

[loply]

Compressor isnt quite up to the spec (1.5hp intead of 2hp, and 25ltr instead of 50ltr)... but i figure itll still work for small parts or small bursts like you say?


How essential is a cabinet? Will I be fine just holding the part with some long pliers and wasting the spray?
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Kickstart]

Hi

I have a 7cfm compressor which runs up to 115psi (kicks in again at 80 I think).

It does work for cleaning up some smaller components. Gets defeated by soft paint though.

You can just waste the material but it will get expensive. What I did was use an old table in the garage and use thick polythene sheet around the bottom to build an enclosure to catch the grit so I could reuse it (just left a flat at the front to reach in through). Works OK (especially as I would have the table anyway).

One thing I would advise is to use some dust masks (as well as goggles) to stop you breathing all the rubbish in. Otherwise you will be coughing the stuff up for days afterwards.

One other thing that can be useful is a spot blaster. These are designed for cleaning very small areas but they do recirculate the grit themselves. Useful for cleaning up small components.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[WildGoose]

did an anti corrosion and husbandry course at work, used a blaster type thing to remove corrosion from various components and bits of metal, works a treat

just a thought that you will probly need to treat the metal afterwards otherwise there is nothing to stop it corroding again straight away, i cant remember the details off the top of my head (too much alcohol) but i believe most of it can be bought in your average B&Q homebase type deal, and comes in the form of a jelly or solvent, obviously depending on the metal/material you are treating

..just extends the ability of the material to resist corrosion for longer
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So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[ZRX61]

[nick.h]

If your using the sand blaster thingy only on a few items, does it matter if you waste the glass beads?
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[loply]

[loply]

P.S Thanks for all the replies and help.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[loply]

If anybody is interested ive just been in the garage and made a complete list of corroded parts:

• Nosecone fairing mounting bolts
  
  
• Front brake caliper banjo bolt
  
• Front brake caliper bleed bolt
  
• Front brake resevoir mounting bolts
  
  
• Horn and horn mounting bracket and bolt
  
• Front fender mounting bolts
  
• Mirror holding bolts
  
• Fuel tank front mounting nut and washer
  
• Head bearing nut and cover
  
• Yoke tensioners/mounting bolts
  
• Lever mounting bolts for clutch lever and brake lever
  
• Side fairing mounting brackets (internal)
  
  
• Rearset mounting bolts and foot lever mounting bolts (both sides)
  
• Rear brake lever banjo bolt
  
• Rear brake brake-light switch connector
  
  
• Sidestand, sidestand spring and bolts
  
• Pillion footpegs mounting brackets + bolts
  
• Exhaust hanger bolt
  
  
• Rear subframe mounting bolts
  
• Rear axle nut and rear axle bolt-head
  
• Rear brake caliper banjo bolt
  
  
• Chain tensioner bolts and nuts
  

Quite hefty, im not even sure how to get some of them off. Doh. Im sure ill get it all done though.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[gammamanuk]

Woudlnt some coarse wet and dry be easy and better

[loply]

With a list that long? I know its winter but cmon!
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[ZRX61]

ok, your basically wasting your time blasting all those little parts. What are you going to do to stop the part rusting once they have been cleaned? you have 2 choices:
#1: Cad plate.... there are 2 common types:
Cad #1 (silver)
Cad #2 (yellow/gold)
There's also a olive green version that Kawasaki use.

Choice #2: Paint em.

Blasting all those little bits will be a PITA & the easiest way to do it is put a handful in a sieve that ya steal from yer mums kitchen otherwise ya gojng be blasting parts all over the place.

What would be a LOT easier is to use acid & just dip the parts. The stuff ya use is Muracic Acid which is the stuff they use in swimming pools & can be found at any B&Q type place etc. Y ause about 20% acid to 80% water mix & just dip the parts in it (using the sieve again) It only takes afew seconds to remove the rust (& the original Cad plate) Then ya rinse the parts in clean water & spray the lot with WD40. Shouldn't cost more than about 30 quid to get all the parts Cad plated.

Banjo bolts: kinda critically sized, just replace em.


DO NOT pour the acid on the lawn after yer done with it..... makes a good drain cleaner tho...

[loply]

is cad plating entirely neccessary? will just regular coats of WD40 or other metal protector do the trick as good?

or paint
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[ZRX61]

[loply]

Can you parkerize or cad plate in a DIY fashion?

I guess Ill just clean the parts up and have them cad plated if not. Bit of a bastard though since theres so many things I would really like to remove the rust on.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Kickstart]

Hi

The Frost catalogue does list kits for DIY plating. No idea how good the results are.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dandit]

[Big Pete]

dont bother doing bolts, buy new (stainless)ones. Home plating of bolts is a bad plan for anything important as there is a serious risk of hydrogen induced cracking. Also, blasting them will damage the thread form. Even if you get the bolts professionally replated you will struggle to get Cadmium plating in the UK, the enviromental problems mean very few platers still use it. Bright zinc, or yellow passivated zinc are easier to get and look very similar. Stainless is the only way to fly, but alloy or titanium are ok for fairings and non safety critical parts. Never use alloy bolts for things like calipers, bar mounts etc, and only use titanium if you are racing and replace the bolts every season.
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Trust me, I`m an engineer
GarageOfPower.co.uk

[ZRX61]

One other option:
Dump the rusty bits in a bucket of Molasses for a few days... strips the rust right off. (yes really)