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torx bolt striped

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stranger12
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: torx bolt striped Reply with quote

Hi All,
not bike related but here it goes .
bolt head on my car diff is stripped and will appreciate all inputs.

below are some pic

it is e16 torx . I did hammer in e12 and e11 but they also slip . it is driving me mad.

vice grip also slips and grinds off the head .

have used heat and plusgas oil but no result. I think it is mainly due to significant torque required to remove the bolt and because it has no head to grip on to undo then oil and heat are useless.

I have one of those go pro blow torches 1400 degree and kept it on the body of the joint for more than 3-4 mins with no result.

does anyone know how I can take the f*cker out with out drilling it ? I think drilling it will even be harder as it is a tough metal bolt.



one option in mind is to use chisel at angle and if that failed then cut the head off and try to use vice grips and turn it from the stud.


I don't know why the f*cker in bmw decided to use torx head rather than normal bolts. the head is smaller than the body .
is there a reason they have used torx as opposed to normal 6 point socket head?



striped head

https://i60.tinypic.com/2prwj7o.jpg


the bolt diameter which is way bigger than the head

https://i62.tinypic.com/wv1uud.jpg


My little garage in case u are interested Smile

https://i62.tinypic.com/29uvouq.jpg

many thanks
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Last edited by stranger12 on 20:06 - 24 May 2014; edited 1 time in total
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i.p.phrealy
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

grind 2 faces on it and use an open ended spanner?
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think that would work. I had to use a half a meter bar to remove the other bolts and with this one I could put a 6 or 7 mm spanner which can not even turn it
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would slice the heads off with a grinder, remove the driveshaft and plug weld a nut onto the bolt stub.

what i did on my e46 diff anyway.
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest getting a length of 1/4 " thick flat bar and drilling a hole in it roughly the size of the bolt head then welding the bar to the bolt head, the heat from the welding will also help as will a bit of longer leverage on the 1/4" bar. Drastic I know but it does work.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 24 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why you no clean the arse end of the thread before you try to remove? Also give everything a good belt with a copper mallet to shock it free.

Do what Chris said.
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thomp1983
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

another vote for cut them off, if you don't have a welder with the joint separated you should have enough thread to put 2 nuts on and lock them together and wind the remains out

chris
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

it seems like i can not get it out any ways or I am not experienced enough with these kind of sh*t

basically did cut the head but the stud is not big enough to allow me to use a vice grip on it .

when I apply heat , I apply it to the body and not the stud, is that the correct way?
I am doing above because I think heat will expand and I want the body to expand not stud otherwise it will make the situation even worse.

i have one of those blow torch , how long should I keep it on the body to ensure it is hot enough ?

now my next option is to cut a thread in the stud and use screw driver but think that will be unsuccessful so if i fail that , I will be drilling it out.

for drilling , I need center drill and iron drill which is one size smaller than the bolt ?

before any of the above I will first try to put two nuts on and tryto get it out as suggested earlier. but I don't think it is big enough to fit two nuts on it
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A standard HSS drill bit should drill through whatever the bolt is made of.

Not sure what you mean by an iron drill.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry i am not very good with drill etc. I meant a drill which is made to be used on metal /iron .
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Aff
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:


when I apply heat , I apply it to the body and not the stud, is that the correct way?
I am doing above because I think heat will expand and I want the body to expand not stud otherwise it will make the situation even worse.


You can do it both ways.

1. Heat the housing to expand it try to remove the bolt while the housing is still hot.

2. Heat just the bolt, then let it cool. Its called constrained expansion.
Basically, when metal heats up it expands, with steel its about 1 micron per 100mm per degree, when it expands it tries to do it in all directions.
However the bolt cant expand in diameter because it is constrained within the thread. This means that it does all its expansion length ways. So the bolt is now longer, but still the same diameter. Now when you let it cool it will do the opposite, shrink in all directions, but now it isn't contained, so it will get shorter and smaller in diameter.

This obviously doesn't work if you heat the housing up at the same time as the bolt.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

can I cool it by applying water on it or have to wait ?

when you guys do it , how long do you keep the heat on and how long should I wait for it to cool off.

sorry for the noob question. it is a learning curv for me . not very familiar with these sort of things
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Aff
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
can I cool it by applying water on it or have to wait ?



If you quench it you will just harden it and it will snap when you try and undo it.
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had some joy with a set of these...

https://www.powertoolsdirect.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/r/irwin-bolt-grip-fastener-remover-base-set-of-5.jpg

Irwin bolt grips. I managed to shift a rounded off, rusty and extremely seized downpipe bolt with one but it killed the bolt grip doing the other two!
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 01:56 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup use some of them in the post above...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Fastener-Remover-Expansion-Set-Screw-Extractors-Bolt-Grips-/171208988544?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dcd9d780



Heat with a blow torch first, for several minutes each bolt. Then allow to cool for 5 or so minutes before a firm* tap on the ends from a hammer cracking off with the extractors.


That should expand them enough to break any seal, allow them to shrink so you can get them out, and the tap for good measure to free them up.


* Firm tap, but not hulk-like. Imagine you're hitting the back of your hand with the hammer. You want it to be hard enough that it'll hurt a lot, but not so hard it breaks your hand/fingers.
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 01:59 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

And then for future if you ever need to remove bolts that are anciently rusted... apply some penetrant spray at least 24 hours before, maybe even a couple of sprays over a couple of days.

A firm whack before undoing can shock the threads loose.

And if you sense it is gonna slip, stop, and destroy it with fire from the blowtorch... used properly there aren't many things that they won't sort out.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

have those. it didn't work. I think those are meant for 12 point and 6 point rather than torx heads


did buy my self a set of titanium hss drill from screw fix for £15. it used to be £25 so I am chuffed.

I shall have a go at drilling it later today or tomorrow
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Re: torx bolt striped Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
I don't know why the f*cker in bmw decided to use torx head rather than normal bolts. the head is smaller than the body .
is there a reason they have used torx as opposed to normal 6 point socket head?

Because Hitler.

Irwins for me. Thumbs Up
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 26 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for the irwins, around £15 IIRC but worth every penny, I used them on my sump bolt which was badly stripped.


Make sure you get the right size kit as they do 2 I think.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,

Spend almost 1 hour with a titanium drill hss bits to drill the bolt

I could only drill in about 1cm from where the head was cut off

After that it is rock solid nothing goes through it

I not sure if it is because i don't do the drilling right so here is how i did it

Started with a small one and it soon broke so did go one size u and again broke ,.

Hot to 5mm which worked but only 1cm in . I can't get past that.
I have tries lower speed, high speed , pressing the drill as it is drilling and no result

Am i using the wrong drill or drill bit?

My drill is bosch
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:

My drill is bosch


Bosch what?
Bosch make a lot of drills, some great ones, and some shitty ones.

All of them are rated differently for drilling metals.

If you don't know the model offhand, to give you some idea, if you spent less than £100 (for cordless) its unlikely the drill is going to be happy drilling very far into most metals, but with the model number of the drill would help say for certain what depth it can do.

Also, are the drill bits titanium?
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
Hi all,

Spend almost 1 hour with a titanium drill hss bits to drill the bolt

I could only drill in about 1cm from where the head was cut off

After that it is rock solid nothing goes through it

I not sure if it is because i don't do the drilling right so here is how i did it

Started with a small one and it soon broke so did go one size u and again broke ,.

Hot to 5mm which worked but only 1cm in . I can't get past that.
I have tries lower speed, high speed , pressing the drill as it is drilling and no result

Am i using the wrong drill or drill bit?

My drill is bosch


I ended up having to angle grind an alloy wheel off after a garage used an impact wrench to tighten the nuts after a new tyre... shredding the head off the locking nut.

It was the ONLY way, despite everyone else's suggestions because believe me I tried every other way, which included various different drills, including a mate's dads near-enough-£500 drill with various one-piece tungsten carbide drill bits (at a cost of over £100 EACH) lent to my by a friend whose work involved drilling titanium turbine blades in jet engines.

Drilling didn't work. At all.



In the pictures, it looks like you've still got the option to try other measures, such as welding a socket onto them and using a long breaker bar to get them off, or another kind of snug fitting reverse-thread gripper.
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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a landrover
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a bosch 650w corded . I used my mobile 2 stroke generator to power it,

I think it drilling power is less than 20nm .

Is it the drill that matters or the head?

My drill bits bought from screw fix which are meant to he titanium .

It is goldish color
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