ZZR Rear brake, what to do to sort it?

[Wonko The Sane]

I've tried to change my rear brake pads since I've done a jive bunny and let it get almost onto the backing material, this is due to assuming the wear on each rear pad would be similar, if the calliper was floating correctly then it would be!

So, the calliper on the bike, the retaining pin is seized in place and won't move.

The calliper on the bike also doesn't float as it should

Other than that, it doesn't leak fluid and the piston does move.


The spare calliper (spare complete intact set-up) in my box of spares is un-proven, it has no fluid in it and I don't know what condition it is in. The retaining pin in this is also seized in place. The body of the calliper is also showing signs of corrosion.

So, I need brake pads on to be using the bike to get to work so it's booked in at a garage tomorrow to get the pads changed, but in the long term something needs sorting more long-term.

Do I buy some retaining pins, cut the one in the spare calliper, get it working and fit the spare to the bike and use that while I re-build the bike's calliper?

Or, do I give the spare calliper a good overhaul and fit that permanently to the bike?
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[el_oso]

this depends greatly on the caliper, so use your brain to figure out if you can do this before attempting it.

On the SV the pad retaining pins were seized in place. I drilled a small hole, smaller than the diameter of the pin from the other side through the calliper material. I was then able to punch the pin through using a punch. Issue resolved, no more stuck pins.
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[Kickstart]

Hi

Those calipers seem to be prone to having the pistons seize, so if neither are siezed like that then you are doing well!

The pin that holds the pads in should just be located with an R clip. Get that out then try and hold onto the pin with a set of mole grips (not just pliers) between the pads and try and twist the pin (bit of penetrating oil on the holes the pin goes through will help). With luck it should just come lose.

All the best

Keith
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[Wonko The Sane]

[Wonko The Sane]

[Kickstart]

[DrSnoosnoo]

When I needed to change my rear pad I to had a totally stuck pin. I tried pulling with pliers loads which ended up making it quite square. I hammered on a torx socket and ratcheted it loose then it came out.

I went super ghey though and but a gold ZX6R rear caliper and rreplaced my rear after the seal blew out, now it almost matches my gold CBR6RR fronts.
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I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[gavbriggs]

I had the pins on the bandit stuck. Set of narrow nose mole grips on the pin very tight and hit the grips with a hammer in the direction the pins come out. Slowly they came out, polished em up to remove any damage and put em back with new pads
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Recent bikes: Varadero 125 - Mod 2 3/2/14 - Bandit 1200 SK4

[Wonko The Sane]

[DrSnoosnoo]

[DrSnoosnoo]

https://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221492195575&alt=web

25 quid isn't to be sniffed at
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I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[_mjs_]

Definately a common problem. Ended up having to replace the entire caliper due to the pad pin getting seized in it's hole.
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Previous Bikes: 2006 Honda XR125L > 2003 Yamaha DT125R > 1996 Honda CB500
Current bikes: 1997 Kawasaki ZZR 600 E5 > 2006 Honda Varadero XL125V

[Wonko The Sane]

As I needed to have it sorted yesterday I've had the garage near work sort it.

For £45 he stripped the caliper and got it floating and working as it should and fitted the new pads.

There be a fair amount of copper slip on the moving parts now.
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[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

^^^There's no shame in paying to fix something that does your noggin in.

Well maybe a little bit of shame.
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[Wonko The Sane]

[Hetzer]

Whack it about with a hammer, it often does the trick.
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"There's the horizon! Ride hard, ride fast and cut down all who stand in your way!"

[Amber Phoenix]

Probably a bit late now, but I've got a set of brand new rear pads (SOK FA192's) and a new VenHill green rear brake line for a ZZR600, going spare in my bits box. At all interested?
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[Llama-Farmer]

Possibly worth taking out the pads and retaining pin and reapplying some copper grease every couple of months. Only a 5 minute job but stops it seizing like a bastard for next time.

Can use the time to press out the piston (without actually removing it from the caliper) so most of it is exposed, and then cleaning off the brake dust and crap with some brake cleaner. That should stop the piston seizing and will mean the seals last longer too.

At most you're looking at a half hour job once every 2-3 months.
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[Wonko The Sane]

[Llama-Farmer]

[TUG]

Stuck pins require either splitting the caliper body and twising with loads of WD-40 or better, or loads of WD or better combined with hitting it in and out from both sides until free, or heat then WD treatment. Glad you got it sorted though! Nothing beats an overhauled caliper!
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[Llama-Farmer]

[TUG]

[Llama-Farmer]

[TUG]