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How to check auto box

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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: How to check auto box Reply with quote

Hi all

Taking my brother to see a bmw 320i on Boxing Day.i know enough about cars .but never owned a auto.
Is there a way to check the auto box is doing what it should?

Cheers Thumbs Up
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locate the ATF dip-stick under the bonnet.... check the level, look at the colour, should be red, sniff it, should smell like a tractor; if brown, and smells, then needs an oil & filter change; if black, then the clutches have worn down and the oil's ever bee changed; if 'golden'.... some-one has filled it with engine oil.. or you have the wrong dip-stick!.... {Point worth noting; I once got asked to go look at a Granada for a Aunt who said 'it conked out'.. checked the engine oil... it had none... "I'll fucking KILL-HIM" was her immediate reaction.... "I TOLD him that was the gear-box dip-stick!".. Her B/F had run it dry of engine oil, checking wrong stick!}

Driving? You ought feel / hear the gear changes, see them on the tacho when needle drops/rises; it will probably shift all the way to 4th by about 45mph on light throttle; point it at a hill, and don't accelerate to see if it down shifts; floor it at about 30 on an NSL to make sure 'kick-down' makes it down shift; 'force-shift' selecting 1, 2, 3, on the shifter, to make sure they engage, and the motor revs past the change points if in 'force'; look for a button or 'mode' selector if a more sophisticated box, with 'economy' and 'sport' modes on it; playing with it will change the change-up / down revs/load...

Be prepared for some slightly alien sensation, especially the engine noise / revs seeming not to have much bearing on how quick the car's going.

AND.. if it seems a bit 'lack-lustre'.. try using 3, (or whatever it's marked') instead of 'D'... esp round town or on a country road; it'll stop it trying to clunk into top, and will change the rev/load change pots for better 'response'.
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UncleFester
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you take it for a test drive ( and haven't driven an auto before ) watch out for the 'creep' function that happens in D as soon as you take your foot off the brake.

Also you need to basically sit on your left leg and do not use it for ANYTHING! Smile
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant cheers both for the info Thumbs Up
apparently it has a full bmw history with recent service.so should be ok.. Very Happy .ive never driven a auto before so should be a experience I know it's going to feel really slow..
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Try kick-down from a low speed through all the gears and just make sure they change smoothly.
Apart from that, any problems should be obvious.

Do beemers use Jacto boxes like my R75? If so, they're fairly bullit-proof but you have to be careful if changing the oil as a lot of garages use the wrong spec.


I think by what he has said all work has been done by bmw from new .think it's a 2004
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Just double checked this and it looks like the most common problem with the Jatco boxes is, if the oil level gets too low, the solonoids give up and First to Second change will go awry. So, if it jerks or struggles to go from 1st to 2nd smoothly, walk away. Make sure the kick=down test is done in "Drive" rather than one of the other gears.



Cheers again all. I have some brilliant info here. Karma

By what I've been told it's done 86,000mls .if it doesn't feel right we'll leave it there's plenty around Thumbs Up
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sidewinder wrote:
ive never driven a auto before so should be a experience I know it's going to feel really slow..
Not necessarily; I learned to drive in Canada when I was 14, so did my lessons in auto; and have appreciated them ever since; but always had manuals util about fifteen years ago, when I driving a car was beginning to not be any 'fun' and changing gear, just a extra chore.

Seem to recall a publicity stunt, by Jaguar in the '60's, when they launched the E-Type Auto... to answer the suggestion the auto wAs going to be 'slower' .. so they pulled two show-room models, and auro and a maual and stuck them on a drag strip, with a top racing driver, possibly Sterling Moss, in the manual, and some woman, maybe even his wife, who I think either didn't have a driving licence or had just passed test, ad got them to 'race'.. woman in the auto 'won'.

Thing is, with an auto, you have the Torque-Converter; a fluid-flywheel, and unlike clutch, when it 'slips' it doesn't just waste energy rubbing the plates together making heat; if the 'drum' on the end of the crank is turning faster than the paddle on the end of the gear-box input shaft, the drum is lifting fluid up that it dumps onto the paddle, increasig the force on it.. hence 'Torque Converter' as it converts any excss engine revs to shaft torque, when in 'slip'.

Means you can put more of the engne's power to the wheels, ore of the time; all the power the engine makes being sent there, not beige wasted in 'slip', or down-time when the clutch is dissengaged, between cogs... but also, where if you revved the knackers off the engine to get at the big power... you would waste a lot of that wearing out clutch plates a manual, in an auto, the TC gives you much bigger chunk of it... again, helping you get ore of the engine's power to the road for more of the time.

Obviously the advantage was flattered in a straight drag-race.. but still..

I actually 'won' my current Civic Auto on the back of this pheomnon; we'd had a bit of car swapping going on round the family, and my Step-dad, put the civic on my mum's drive, thinking it might suit my Step-Dad.. who hates driving... it only creased his loathing, so he 'made' my mum drive it, as her Renault 'Barge' was on its last legs.. she hated it.... "I put my foot down and it just DOESN'T do ANYTHING!"... what she was actually grumbling about was that she'd hear the engine rev up, when she floored it (she's a bit f a lead foot!), from 2K to about 4.5.. where the power is...and the TC go into slip..... motor turning almost peak-power revs and putting most of that to the wheels through the TC, car was actually accelerating harder, than their manual Fiesta, that if you floored t, wouldn't instantly 'rev up' ad would have to climb through however many thousand rpm, making a lot less than peak power while it was at it.. but DID have the engine making noise sort of related to speed, rather than droning at fixed speed, seemingly not doing a lot... and exaggerated by just sticking the thing 'Ecconmy' D4, with the least responsive change points constantly trying to use highest gear, lowest revs..... "Well if YOU like it YOU can HAVE it!" was the final answer, and she bought another Barge... Hey I'm not going to grumble at a 'free' car! But rather amusing two-car family outing to Wales weekend before last, showing her just how 'responsive' an auto can be, swinging it round them mountain bends... she was also rather mute on her other 'gripe' about Auto's not having any 'engine braking', when she followed ad realised I wasn't 'always' on the foot-brake Laughing

Yeah.. stick in 'D' and leave it there; very easy to not get the best out of one, and for it to feel rather sluggish... but get used to one, learn where the change points are, learn to use the lower gears or program modes, very little reason they 'need' be much, if any slower or more boring to drive, even on a 'nice' road... meanwhile, on 'horrible' roads.. surrounded by 'idiot drivers'.. that seem increasingly more the 'norm' these days...... well, if you cant beat'em, join em, and let the box take some of the effort out of it; stick a talking book on the radio, relax and drive it like a Dodgem! (Curiously, I think it was actually a 'Dodge' auto I did my lessons all them years ago!)

As you may have guessed, I am a slush-box 'fan'.... not SO sure I'd want one on a motorbike though.... but a car, that gets used like a washing machine.. think they are rather maligned in this country... even the "Well they don't do good mpg" criticism is a bit misplaced... round town, where the slush-box comes into its own, you don't get good mpg anyway, the difference, if there is any is't that big, while on the motorway and the like, Torque Converter is 'locked', you are getting direct drive to the back wheels, same as in a manual... way you drive has more influence over mpg you get than whether you have to waggle a stick to change gear.
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arry
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Locate the ATF dip-stick under the bonnet.... check the level


If it's an E46 or later it won't have a dipstick. The gearboxes are 'sealed for life' (they're not, you can change the oil, but it's a sump pan off job, with a new filter, and the oil isn't cheap...)

E46's do have a reputation for doing auto boxes. https://www.noreverse.org/


My 330d is at ~195k on its original gearbox, gearbox oil etc. It's not as smooth as it was 60k ago, that's for sure, but it's still working fine. ......... touch wood.
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arry
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
'force-shift' selecting 1, 2, 3, on the shifter, to make sure they engage, and the motor revs past the change points if in 'force'; look for a button or 'mode' selector if a more sophisticated box, with 'economy' and 'sport' modes on it; playing with it will change the change-up / down revs/load...


Just to clarify. The 46 box arrangement has a sports and tiptronic 'manual' mode. With the car in D, flip the gearstick to the left to activate S mode - S will appear on the dashboard display. Now if you flick the stick up or down, it'll change gear manually, and M1, M2 etc will appear on the display. The box won't allow it to rev out and bounce the limiter - it'll assume you're being retarded and flick it up a gear. It can also be a bit lame changing down as it won't allow the downshift until it thinks it's going to drop into a suitable rev range. Can be quite frustrating.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Are they Jatco boxes arry?


No, I don't think so. The diesel box is a GM unit. The petrol is a ZF I think.... The petrol box isn't my area of expertise.

Well in fact the diesel one isn't either. I've been watching reports of their frailty and just putting my fingers in ears going 'la la la not listening' hoping mine holds out. Which it has done, so I'm either extremely lucky, or they're not as bad as the internet would have you believe.
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

All its advertised at is 320i auto .so no idea if it has sports modes and the like but it is a 2004 model.
Loads of useful info here guys.should help him not to buy another dodgy motor. Very Happy .will probably get him to book it in if he does buy it.and get the gearbox oil and filter done Thumbs Up
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arry
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 24 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sidewinder wrote:
All its advertised at is 320i auto .so no idea if it has sports modes and the like but it is a 2004 model.


It'll have the tiptronic and sports mode regardless of whether it's an SE or an M Sport model.

M sport ride quality on E46 is shocking, so be prepared for that Laughing

Other things to check are the front wishbones - at the rear of the arm there's a lollipop bush and if they wear (and believe me they do like to wear) the front wheels will be able to wobble/toe in/out and wear the tyres and generally give you crappy wheel wobble at speed. About £250 for a new set of arms complete, or £60-£80 depending for some polyflex bushes to replace the existing ones with.
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 01:05 - 25 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stick it in drive and get up to 30 then brake reasonably sharply to a stop.

if it feels like someone has bumped into the back of you just before you come to a standstill walk away.

its a sign of failing mechatronics solenoids.

just replaced them on my e63 which uses a similar (all be it more advanced) box and it isn't a particularly fun or cheap job.


stick it in sport manual mode and put it in 4th on a flat surface doing a constant speed. watch the rev counter carefully for it fluctuating up and down by ~100 rpm ish.

sign of a failing torque convertor / lockup clutch. which is again lots of money.


have a scan underneath and look for gearbox drips. no level sensor or warning so they can leak themselves dry. sumps are made of plastic and warp over time which causes leaks. zf have done 3 or 4 revisions on the design over the years.
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well we went and saw this bmw.it worked liked a peach shifted lovely and smooth.kick down was fine and nothing to be suspicious of.hechas booked it in for the gear box oil and filter to be chaged Thumbs Up
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arry
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure they know to use the correct oil. I don't know what oil it is in that particular box so well worth researching.

I nearly decided to change mine but then decided not to bother. I found a Fuchs oil that met all the technical specifications but the BM forums seem to go ape if you suggest anything other than the original Esso stuff about a hundred and fifty quid a change Laughing
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

you have to use dielectric gear oil because the mechatronics wiring inside the gearbox is exposed to the oil.

i paid about £17 a litre for zf fluid. if you buy the same zf stuff with a bmw sticker on it its £21 + vat per litre.

it takes about 7 litres for a sump change.
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's going to a bmw specialist.so hopefully they will put the correct stuff in....
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