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Destroyed bearings

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dsharman1
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 22:48 - 09 May 2015    Post subject: Destroyed bearings Reply with quote

Hi, I was on my bike yesterday when the back wheel went wobbly and to cut a long story short, basically one of the rear wheel bearings had totally fallen apart. Now replacement isn't a problem but what I do want to know is what could have caused it, they hadn't been in very long, maybe 1000km max and they are good quality bearings (fag) , any ideas? [/quote][/list]
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 09 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My opinion, either:

1) improper installation
or
2) Grease washed out with a jetwash
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dsharman1
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 09 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if this would affect it but the edge which houses the bearings on this side dies have a slit out of it but the bearings are still snug in there
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Major Doss
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PostPosted: 03:21 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Early FireBlades munched RW bearings, just saying. As has been said, do it yourself with quality bearings, and replace the the sprocket carrier one, if fitted, I dunno the bike. Odd that the FAG let go, good brand.... Thinking
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dsharman1
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bearings were good quality ones, the brand was fag, I was told they were decent, also I did buy the high speed variety.

[quote
Early FireBlades munched RW bearings, just saying. As has been said, do it yourself with quality bearings, and replace the the sprocket carrier one, if fitted, I dunno the bike. Odd that the FAG let go, good brand.... Thinking
[/quote]
I am not aware of there being one on the sprocket, the last one was fitted at the same time as all of the bump there 4 which seem fine which were all fitted by me with guidance from my dad since I haven't done it before
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

There certainly is a bearing in the sprocket carrier.

I just thought of another reason for the bearings to fail prematurely:

3) missing tubular spacer between the wheel bearings

If you look at the colour-shaded photo (or a Hayabusa wheel) in this thread you'll see the spacers shaded red.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=221851

If either of the two internal ones are missing it will trash the bearings very fast indeed. You'll also probably notice more thread than usual poking through the axle nut.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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salem1987
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
There certainly is a bearing in the sprocket carrier.

I just thought of another reason for the bearings to fail prematurely:

3) missing tubular spacer between the wheel bearings

If you look at the colour-shaded photo (or a Hayabusa wheel) in this thread you'll see the spacers shaded red.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=221851

If either of the two internal ones are missing it will trash the bearings very fast indeed. You'll also probably notice more thread than usual poking through the axle nut.




Agreed, i had a cbr400 that kept munching rear wheel bearings. Was all because the tubular spacer in between the bearings being missing. When you tighten the wheel up it will put way to much lateral pressure on the bearings.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess, presuming all components have been fitted correctly, would be a spanner monkey hammering the bearings in by hitting the inner race or the guard rather than the outer race.
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evilzed
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know one of my rear wheel bearings developed very small amount of play but enough to feel it in the handling, I adjusted the chain about 1k miles prior and used the manuals specified 93Nm of torque on the axle nut however that was on greased threads which increased the torque so was most likely the cause.

I swapped all 3 bearings out (inc sprocket) and used 70Nm instead and all was fixed.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's amazing how easy it is to damage a bearing during fitting. I once got told that 80% of failures are in the first two months of service due to rough fittings.
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 11 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

evilzed wrote:
and used the manuals specified 93Nm of torque on the axle nut however that was on greased threads which increased the torque so was most likely the cause.


If the spacers are in place it shouldn't make any difference. Not until you torque it high enough to start to crush the inner races of the bearings or the steel spacers (and the thread would strip long before then)

All the best

K
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Stalk
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PostPosted: 06:51 - 11 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might be wrong but, you say you fitted the high speed ones. C type? If so I believe that they are incorrect for bike wheel bearings as they are designed to go a lot faster and are made loose so that they expand to the right size when in use. Use normal ones.
Feel free to correct me people.
Cheers
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evilzed
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 11 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
evilzed wrote:
and used the manuals specified 93Nm of torque on the axle nut however that was on greased threads which increased the torque so was most likely the cause.


If the spacers are in place it shouldn't make any difference. Not until you torque it high enough to start to crush the inner races of the bearings or the steel spacers (and the thread would strip long before then)

All the best

K


Yea the bearings looked new when I was swapping them and thought what you said would be the case, maybe it was just time for them to go it was at 9k miles 93nm sure did feel tight though (borderline scary stripping point) my fazers manual asks for 150nm!!!
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dsharman1
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 11 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think i may have found the culprit, the spacer in the middle of the wheel in between the 2 bearings is a little bit to short so it is not quite up to the bottom of the lip which the bearing sits on so it isn't making contact with the center of the bearing.now just to make a new one up tonight when i get back Sad
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 11 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsharman1 wrote:
i think i may have found the culprit, the spacer in the middle of the wheel in between the 2 bearings is a little bit to short so it is not quite up to the bottom of the lip which the bearing sits on so it isn't making contact with the center of the bearing.now just to make a new one up tonight when i get back Sad


Might be worth checking the front wheel in case the spacers have been swapped around

All the best

K
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dsharman1
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 12 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had the front wheel out when i first got the bike because all bearings needed replacing,and the one in the front is a lot shorter than the rear one. but i have replaced the rear spacer and fitted 2 new bearings and sop far all seems well but i have only gone about 8 miles on them this morning
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 12 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best way to check for significant axial loading is to leave off the dust seals and mount the whole rotating assembly then spin it by hand. It should spin a good few turns and coast to a stop. If you witness it being 'braked' it's time to investigate.
One thing that's quite common to find is that the bearing seat get's nicked when drifting out the old bearing raising a burr. This causes the new bearing to sit canted on the seat when it's clamped up by the axle. Could be why your tube spacer appears short.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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