Moving the Location of a Rectifier

[Motorhate]

I have the rectifier on my bike mounted in a very precarious position - i.e. right at the bottom of the frame of my bike, which worries me that it could get damaged if I hit a bump or speed hump and get torn off. I want to move it to a safer location, not too far away but away from the bottom of the frame and was wondering if there were a set of male and female leads I could simply attach to extend the range. Is there such a thing or would I have to somehow re-wire the existing wiring loom to allow it to be moved?
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Current - Harley Davidson FXDB Street Bob | Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide | Harley Davidson Road King
GONE - Honda CB500 Ratbike | Yamaha FZ750 | Yamaha XVS1100 | Kawasaki VN2000 | Kawasaki ER-6 F | Harley Davidson XL883L Sportster

[Matt B]

Soldering iron, wire, heat shrink. Extend wires, move reg/rec, job jobbed.

Try to put it somewhere it can dissipate its heat with some airflow over it.
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stinkwheel: He had an animated .gif of a cat performing fellatio. It's not socially acceptable. It can have real life adverse effects on other people.

[Casper]

Make a couple of foot loom and move it to somewhere that will get a bit air flow. All you want is the male and female side of your connector and whatever length of wire you need. You can get a sheath for the wire but i prefer loom tape. You should get it all here

https://stores.ebay.co.uk/towzatronics/

[stinkwheel]

The mouldings for the multi-pin connectors tend to be unique to each reg/rec.

BUT

The connectors inside them are not. You can buy those over the counter.

You can, with either the proper terminal removal tool or patience and a small screwdriver wiggle the connectors out of the moulding.

So. Neatest way I can think of doing the job.

1) Mark the wire positions in the moulding.
2) Wiggle the wires out of the moulding with terminals attached.
3) Snap the terminals into a new, 6-wire connector block.
4) Attach the other end of the connector block to a new, multi-core cable. The stuff they sell for towbars is ideal, works out very neat and saves wrapping.
5) Attach new terminals for connectors to the far end or your multi-core cable and snap them back into your original moulding.

This place also has most things you'd need. Watch the postage and VAT!
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Motorhate]

Thanks everyone, will probably try this next week.
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Current - Harley Davidson FXDB Street Bob | Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide | Harley Davidson Road King
GONE - Honda CB500 Ratbike | Yamaha FZ750 | Yamaha XVS1100 | Kawasaki VN2000 | Kawasaki ER-6 F | Harley Davidson XL883L Sportster

[Fizzer Thou]

Pictures of the rectifier and its present location would be useful.Then work out where you would like to relocate it to
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Vincent]

I'm guessing a previous owner has stuck it somewhere where it can be cooled better.....a lot of reg/recs were tucked behind tail pieces or side panels for a time and tended to overheat...........sticking a small 12v over the top is another solution...or add a heat-sink and use heat transfer paste between it and the frame.
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Space Is Deep

[andys675]

even manufacturers move them

1050 sprint and daytona 675 had them in better places in later production
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Some people feel the rain, others just get wet.

[stinkwheel]

A lot of factory customs/cruisers have the reg/rec mounted on the bottom of the frame near the front engine mounts as standard, presumably because that's where Harley put them.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Oldie]

The early Deauvilles went through reg/recs like crazy. Used to try using thermal paste and also run an extra neg lead direct to the battery (but I can't remember exactly why )