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Tried my first oil change

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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Tried my first oil change Reply with quote

All was going well;

I drained the oil, fully black oil. I opened the side casing to clean the oil strainer. Refit the casing and put a touch of oil in and noticed there was a slight leak coming from the casing. It has a gasket between the metal casing which is where the oil is leaking through..

Please any advice? I have a YBR 125
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 10:02 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you replace the gasket? Did you tighten the bolts on the cover to the correct torque?
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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Did you replace the gasket? Did you tighten the bolts on the cover to the correct torque?


I haven't replaced it - Do I have to do that each time?

I did read something afterwards about torqueing the bolts at a criss-cross pattern, I don't have a torque wrench but have ordered one to arrive in 2 days time - Is there any risk to the bike to leave it without oil for a few days? I'm not planning to start it
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's leaking, yes I'd replace it. I'd also be sure that the old gasket was completely removed before putting the replacement one on.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it a thickish round-section rubber gasket, or a thin, flat one that's a bit fibrous?

Round-section are usually re-usable. If it's a flat one, they don't tend to squish back down as evenly.

For the sake of a few £££ you might as well replace it.

Pikey options are:

Make your own from a cereal packet. Yes, totes srs.

Seal the existing one with blue hylomar / RTV gasket sealant. Clean off the gasket and the faces thoroughly, and use a very thin smear towards the outside of the gasket. Having it squidge out of the casing is fine, you don't want any being squidged inside and getting in the oilways.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use this:

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/quick-gasket/?555770660&0&cc5_139&gclid=CjsKDwjw0cXIBRCxjqnE3K3sHhIkAL1LezQ5EcvhOfmk3Mthk1FHgsIJ63OzBXV8wda5AlYP0JxWGgLbwPD_BwE
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 11:07 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hawkeye1250FA wrote:


That's why so many second hand bikes are fcuked.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Rolling Eyes

Its fine.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 11:37 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It really isn't. You can't see where the excess instant gasket is going, and all it takes is for a small bit to break off inside your engine and get stuck in an oilway and you've got a dead engine. You are better off making a gasket from gasket paper or even an old corn flake packet. Instant gasket is the work of evil.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
It really isn't. You can't see where the excess instant gasket is going, and all it takes is for a small bit to break off inside your engine and get stuck in an oilway and you've got a dead engine. You are better off making a gasket from gasket paper or even an old corn flake packet. Instant gasket is the work of evil.


I suppose it comes down to how good you are / careful with it. Ive never had a "dead engine". If you are putting on enough to have "excess gasket" - you are using too much.

For how cheap proper gasket paper is though - it's a completely valid alternative. Thumbs Up
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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Is it a thickish round-section rubber gasket, or a thin, flat one that's a bit fibrous?


It's a thin, flat one.

Rogerborg wrote:


Pikey options are:

Make your own from a cereal packet. Yes, totes srs.

Seal the existing one with blue hylomar / RTV gasket sealant. Clean off the gasket and the faces thoroughly, and use a very thin smear towards the outside of the gasket. Having it squidge out of the casing is fine, you don't want any being squidged inside and getting in the oilways.


Lol wow cereal box! I've ordered a gasket from eBay for £6 (I know it's not too cheap but I need it soon) so it should be arriving by Thursday latest, as should my torque wrench.

So hopefully on Friday afternoon/Saturday morning I will crack on with it and change the air filter/spark plug/lube chain while I'm at it.

I'm also going to attempt tightening my chain as it's a little loose but first need to research if it's beginner friendly. Hopefully it'll feel like a much improved bike with this maintenance (I think it's been a while since it had its last service
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

onlyJaz wrote:
I'm also going to attempt tightening my chain as it's a little loose but first need to research if it's beginner friendly.


Once you've done it - you will kick yourself for not learning it sooner. Its really easy.

Or perhaps I've been doing that wrong the last 15 years as well.. So ignore me...

Laughing Laughing
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
It really isn't. You can't see where the excess instant gasket is going, and all it takes is for a small bit to break off inside your engine and get stuck in an oilway and you've got a dead engine. You are better off making a gasket from gasket paper or even an old corn flake packet. Instant gasket is the work of evil.


Ducati and Yamaha both recommend and use Three Bond on their machines for cover gaskets etc. If it's applied properly, i.e. a very thin bead, then it doesn't cause any problems whatsoever. I've used it numerous times for hard to get or stupidly expensive gaskets with no issues whatsoever.

It's becoming more and more commonplace. Thumbs Up


Last edited by Islander on 17:05 - 09 May 2017; edited 1 time in total
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The proper gasket will be better and cost less than instant shite.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 12:51 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
The proper gasket will be better and cost less than instant shite.


And more fundamentally, less likely for a n00b to cause mayhem.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the noob comment is key there.

An idiot using the correct tool incorrectly can still break something. In the same way that an experienced person can use the wrong tool and still get the job done safely. Thumbs Up (caveat: this in no way should be taken as an admittance that instant gasket is the "wrong" tool... Its an analogy)

and I disagree Chris-red (on your costings at least). I'm still using the instant gasket I paid £12 for a good few years ago. I use about 5ml or less for a gasket. so it costs me roughly 22p for a gasket that (imo) works perfectly well.
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arry
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Is it a thickish round-section rubber gasket, or a thin, flat one that's a bit fibrous?

Round-section are usually re-usable. If it's a flat one, they don't tend to squish back down as evenly.


It's a thin flat fibrous gasket and needs scraping off then replacing. It's about £6.

Edit: Too late to the party, didn't read fully. Fail.
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arry
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

onlyJaz wrote:

So hopefully on Friday afternoon/Saturday morning I will crack on with it and change the air filter/spark plug/lube chain while I'm at it.

I'm also going to attempt tightening my chain as it's a little loose but first need to research if it's beginner friendly. Hopefully it'll feel like a much improved bike with this maintenance (I think it's been a while since it had its last service


Air filter is a piece of cake. Located behind the side panel - just be careful how you slide the side panel off as to not break the lugs; it's tricky the first time you do it but once you've got it off and you can look at it and see how it fits together, putting it back together is easy. Air filter is a simple case of unbolt housing and replace with new one so you can't really go wrong there.

Spark plug - again really easy but just make sure you don't go ape with a socket on a huge bar; it doesn't need a lot of torque, at all. Torque wrench setting FT it definitely is not.

Chain - it's easy, really easy, but don't forget you need to slack off the rear drum adjuster as that will stop the wheel coming backwards towards the rear of the swing-arm. It'll also cause a bit of merry hell as it'd go out of adjustment - which means the rear brake becomes a bit snatchy, and you could end up just locking it up if you're not expecting it.

Well done for having a go.
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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update guys..

So I ordered a torque wrench and a new gasket, they both arrived during the week and I realised the wrench was WAY too bulky for the small bolts of my clutch case Doh!

So I fit the new gasket and used my own judgement to equally tighten the bolts very slowly one at a time in a crosscross pattern to keep it equal, it hasn't seemed to leak anything yet so hopefully it is all good.

Changed the air filter, changed spark plug, tightened the chain (it really is so easy), decided to give the bike a bit of a wash down, cleaned the chain, sprockets & front disk, lubed the chain and pretty much completed my first service so I'm quite chuffed.

Two issues to note;

1) When I started it after the spark plug & air filter change, it was choking a little and it was struggling to respond to the throttle for about 2 seconds on each roll of the handlebar. But this problem hadn't come back after a few times so I stopped worrying about it.

2) sometimes I heard a loud click when I press the rear brake whilst riding, I'm not sure if I have tightened it properly after adjusting the chain. It stops the bike fine, no error there but not sure what the click is but I'm sure on close inspection I will find out
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

onlyJaz wrote:
I realised the wrench was WAY too bulky for the small bolts of my clutch case Doh!

I don't like them anyway. Too much risk of snappybolt. The last time I used one was on a valve cover and even with everything (including bolts) cleaned up and a fresh gasket, it leaked after using the specified torque.

I'd rather trust my own judgement, or yours for that matter. Good job on getting everything done. Thumbs Up


onlyJaz wrote:
2) sometimes I heard a loud click when I press the rear brake whilst riding, I'm not sure if I have tightened it properly after adjusting the chain. It stops the bike fine, no error there but not sure what the click is but I'm sure on close inspection I will find out

When you did the chain, did you:

Slacken then re-tighten the torque arm, circled in red?

Adjust (i.e. slacken) the rear brake adjuster, circled in yellow?

https://i.imgur.com/C0MDKur.png
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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks

I did slacken them both and tightened the torque arm after adjusting the chain.

The brake adjuster was weird, I was trying to tighten it back up but thought I might have been overdoing it (not sure if it was meant to get tight or what the ideal position is supposed to be) so I did it a bit and left it at what I thought may be okay
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I back the adjustor right off while I'm moving the axle, then check the brake actuator arm is free to wiggle (drum brake mechanisms to tend to gum up). Then when I've locked the axle off, I do the brake adjuster up until there's just a little bit of slack left in the arm.

Your click, could it be a spring fouling and releasing?
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craigT19
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

onlyJaz wrote:
Thanks

I did slacken them both and tightened the torque arm after adjusting the chain.

The brake adjuster was weird, I was trying to tighten it back up but thought I might have been overdoing it (not sure if it was meant to get tight or what the ideal position is supposed to be) so I did it a bit and left it at what I thought may be okay


No the brake adjuster doesnt go tight you just adjust it untill the brake comes on for a decent amount of travel at the pedal. sit on the bike and push the lever down and if it feels like the pedal is going a long way down (or you just dont like the possition) then adjust the nut accordingly Thumbs Up .
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Nemo
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
It really isn't. You can't see where the excess instant gasket is going, and all it takes is for a small bit to break off inside your engine and get stuck in an oilway and you've got a dead engine. You are better off making a gasket from gasket paper or even an old corn flake packet. Instant gasket is the work of evil.


I've used it many a times on crankcases because it's what the manufacturer says to use, never had any issues.
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onlyJaz
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 14 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:


Your click, could it be a spring fouling and releasing?


I just checked, the torque arm isn't flush so will need further tightening (oversight as it was getting dark when I was finishing). I'll tighten it later on and see if it still occurs
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