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Lightweight (Airportable) Landrover rebuild.

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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 09:13 - 24 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Came off shift yesterday morning so slept all day and last night I got the pressure washer out and did some cleaning, not only of the underside of the truck but also the drive underneath it.
It was just a preliminary clean to get as much off as possible before I spray it down with Gunk degreaser and do it again. When I do this I'll have the wheels off as well so the hubs and drums can be cleaned down.

Chris

Unfortunately no way to get it to somewhere to clean underneath so I just have to do it myself and continue working in the accumulated muck.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 24 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main gearbox is now refilled and the overdrove box is drained and refilled.
With the cleaner underneath I was able to look closer at the prop gaitors, they look like they don't need changing but the grease nipples will need cleaning so the UJ's can be greased.
The UJ on the rear prop that connects to the gearbox may need to be replaced as there is some play in it but we will look closer at it.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 01 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear cross member

I was bored again today so had a look at the rear cross member, it was in a terrible state.
After undoing the bolts holding the bumperette on the right side on it literally fell apart
This shows how rough it looked.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160801_131524_1470061035713.jpg

Some of the detritus that fell out of it.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160801_131531_1470061035566.jpg

After unbolting it from the rear tub it pretty much just fell off.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160801_132546_1470061035446.jpg

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/IMG-20160801-WA0011.jpg

The remains show just how bad it was.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160801_132605_1470061035170.jpg

Tomorrow we do the other side.
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ADSrox0r
World Chat Champion



Joined: 23 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 02 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heh, there has to be some irony to the fact that you had two whacking great chains to secure the vehicle attached to that.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 02 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

it looks like wet cardboard Laughing
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lozzypop1
Certified MILF!



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 03 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
Heh, there has to be some irony to the fact that you had two whacking great chains to secure the vehicle attached to that.


Actually, it was just a convenient place to hang stuff. (That wasn't in my kitchen Laughing )
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 02 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really thought about posting much recently, sort of stuck in a rut with it at the moment. When I have time to work on it, its too cold outside, rest of the time I'm working.

The cross member is now fully removed and I am in the process of trimming the chassis ends. found out after removal that the chassis end rails are flared out so I have to do something about that so the new cross member extensions will slide over the ends. I also have to remove a load of chassis underseal so we have clean metal to weld to.

After stripping out the few remaining door seals I have started to replace them only to find the ones for the windscreen to door are the wrong type and cause the door top to bulge out so I am trying to find the correct type which is a little hard without a parts fiche or parts book which isn't available. The only one that is available is incomplete.

Will try and sort some pictures later.

On the plus side I am having driving lessons so I can get my license.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 04 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The door seals are made of two parts, the foam rubber seal and a metal strip that slides inside it.
The seals are avaiable to buy but the metal strip isn't so I had a word with a local engineering firm who cut 12 metre long stainless steel strips for me for 5.
The seals are riveted to the body work so need holes drilled in them, not the easiest thing to do with stainless, the drill tends to catch and twist the strip and if you are holding it cut your hands to ribbons so its important to wear leather gauntlets while drilling for protection.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161204_185846_1480886194598.jpg

Marked and punched up strip.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161204_180442_1480874732307.jpg

Drilled strip.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161204_211545_1480886194089.jpg

The strip is then used to mark up holes to drill through the foam rubber seal and slipped inside.
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mentalboy
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 05 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

The seals are riveted to the body work so need holes drilled in them, not the easiest thing to do with stainless, the drill tends to catch and twist the strip and if you are holding it cut your hands to ribbons so its important to wear leather gauntlets while drilling for protection.




Hint for future drilling of thin metal strip - Put a piece of gash wood on the floor, place metal strip on the wood, stand on it and then drill using a hand held power drill rather than a drill press. The wood provides a stable work surface that won't wreck your drill point. Never again will you suffer lacerations/amputations caused by high speed spinning thin metal strip Smile
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 05 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A quick explanation of how the seals are fitted.

This is the part of the body panel where the seal fixes to. Its flat with a lip as a retainer.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161205_140541_1480948066525.jpg

As discussed the drill strip is placed inside of the foam rubber seal and the foam drilled.
The rivets are fitted through the seal and then into the body work and pushed into place using the rivet gun. An air riveter is used as this means you can push the rivet hard through the seal.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161205_140819_1480948049662_1.jpg

Pull the trigger and the rivet is compressed and finished.
After all the rivets are fitted it looks like this.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20161205_141417_1480948049079_1.jpg
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Johnnythefox
Crazy Courier



Joined: 01 Dec 2016
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 05 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

my first (and only missed) car was one of Leylands finest, a 1275gt clubman. denim blue.... this thread is a joy to read.
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 2 years, 95 days between these two posts...

sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for an update.

After the rear cross member was removed I discovered the corrosion goes all the way forward to the rear right spring hanger. This means I either have to plate the chassis which is risky and would need the spring hanger cutting off and a new one fitting or to buy a 1/4 chassis where the chassis rails go further forward on the chassis.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/rear_chassis.jpg
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the new galvanised 1/4 chassis complete with spring hangers. The bushes were included and already fitted. 180.12 delivered.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/rear_chassis.jpeg
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres a clearer picture of the corrosion on the back of the chassis. As you can see the corrosion is all the way to and behind the spring hanger so we could remove the hanger, plate behind and fit a new one but we may as well just fit a 1/4 chassis wth all new metal.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190313_132821_resized.jpg

Before we can fit the 1/4 chassis I will have to cut the chassis right back, remove the underseal and then remove the wiring loom from the chassis rail as otherwise it will melt during welding. The rear tub will also need removing once the chassis sides have been tacked in place so the top can be weled without melting the aluminium tub floor.
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jnw010
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

180 for a galvanized quarter chassis. Laughing
As classic car ownership goes, Landy's have got to be amongst the cheapest to restore.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
180 for a galvanized quarter chassis. Laughing
As classic car ownership goes, Landy's have got to be amongst the cheapest to restore.


I was talking to Fisty about this yesterday and he was surprised how cheap the price was.
When you consider a set of front SBS pads for his ZX10R caliper equipped Busa is 90 yes its an absolute bargain.
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