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350 bullet Trials redux

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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Owwww !
That diagram!
Take it down before somebody sees it!

I always sketch it out on paper before commiting to anything printable
especially when working on the fly when other/better ideas
and mods may occur.
One page per system helps clarify things as well
One for charging, one for ignition, lights etc

Then, when you get to the stage of creating a single sheet diagram
to publish in colour whichever software you eventually use,
the sketches notes and amendments will help build a coherent diagram and
you'll be less likely to make the howlers above.

I often use photoshop and pen tool then stroke in with brush and pencil
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howlers?

It's not supposed to be neat. It's to show me the position of the wires and connectors on the bike more than to make a neat diagrammatic representation of the circuits.

It's a vector graphic so colours/wires can be changed at a click and componants/wires can be grouped, anchored and dragged. If I change something, I just mark the change on the printout and go back and alter the diagram. I might do a "neat" version later for fault-finding purposes, this is a working document.

I already have a "proper" wiring diagram showing the circuit layout but it doesn't help lace it all up coherantly because there are some things which are fixed, including the available wire colours in the multicore cables and the wire colours on the componants themselves. I've used a different lighting switch and added relays to handle the A/CD/C lighting through a switch that was designed for a split lighting coil.

In essense, there is a big 10-core cable that runs from the teacaddy to the headlamp. I've left it long and stripped the outer off once it enters these then cut the individual wires down to an appropriate length as they reach the componants/splits/joins. They're all hooked up at the teacaddy end.

I now have a bundle of 9 long wires sticking out into the headlamp area. If you follow each wire from the centre of the diagram, it comes to each connection it has to make in the order it needs to be connected. I just need to work along it. Where 4 cross, I need two wires in each crimp and so-on. Some of them go direct to the componant. Others need to be looped on to the next.

So like the grey wire is for side/tail lights. It'll come into the headlight and be cut where it meets the yellow wire coming out of the switch. I'll apply a female bullet connector to the end with a second bit of grey wire in that connector. The yellow will have a male bullet and the second grey will go on to the sidelights.

The green is the AC return and will be bundled in shrinktube with the white and yellow from my relay module and attached to an H4 bulb connector block.

The brown will attach to the ammeter with a ring terminal. I'll probably change the layout here so another two brown wires attach to the same post. one will have a bullet connector to the brown and black coming out of the headlamp switch. The other will be shrinktubed to the blue and run out to the brake switch.

And so-on.

It's working well so far.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SfzDsYwSND_1_a-JBI0ryplS8McURUxJxbf1OSgq1wIRibHWsYPQcKUm7uWyEfQTkfaJBfHOaV3BSxpnProKxpyJ6wSZzn7RWvuJe7pvj4bolxJcKygAWi0UYhX0oNwDdq6luvKGCA=w1092-h696-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Owwww !
That diagram!
Take it down before somebody sees it!

I always sketch it out on paper before commiting to anything printable
especially when working on the fly when other/better ideas
and mods may occur.
One page per system helps clarify things as well
One for charging, one for ignition, lights etc

Then, when you get to the stage of creating a single sheet diagram
to publish in colour whichever software you eventually use,
the sketches notes and amendments will help build a coherent diagram and
you'll be less likely to make the howlers above.

I often use photoshop and pen tool then stroke in with brush and pencil


Hmm? I've haven't looked at that one for years. Just the first thing I found that was vaguely relevant to the conversation, i.e. "can it do coloured wires?"

What did I get wrong BTW? Not that the vehicle that it was intended for even exists any more Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's it 90% wired up now.

Not a great update because it doesn't look much different from the last time but there's a good few hours work gone into it.

Note to self: Buy a ratchet crimping tool for non-insulated terminals... The manual crimping die works well but after a few dozen with two crimps on each, gets a little wearing!

First issue, the wires on my C50 switchgear don't reach into the casquette because of my massively long and wide handlebars. I don't like the option of connecting them out in the open because they're going to get covered in mud and water and shite.

So I soldered a length of wire (in my selected colours rather than the honda colours) to the end of each and shrink-tubed over it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/014h9ES8CFbvtorFm5nG-9OkqqL2cKXJLizTBM15nMKR3TWcL6kj67QqxxPO-JiJ_FJGGsYqX4A98nF0_2essiQaBMz4oe7pM7TYyu9mgkHwKXXuce9oTEmutzgl0YSJ0ki6gUC1aA=w1155-h866-no

I don't mind soldered joints when neither end or both ends are supported. If one end is supported, it's a recipe for disaster because the solder causes a stress riser in the cable and the heat of soldering anneals the wire just below it. All the flex happens at one point and the inner snaps inside the insulation.

Anyway, wrapped the whole lot in self-amalgamating tape afterwards so no chance of water getting in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y6ifaEfuzPfDRYTjNTPDkdf4kLybtwuPXIR-VWZWw8yyq9j8pzCdPDxfiWYNKvldHcPI73JWHSU1x-i9k1esPNfrDY8NNwzokWTEJoxB9Xi5Mp6u6BN0p0aBphdcLyKoXuaxhtpC-w=w1155-h866-no

Having said all that abotu solder, I had to solder these ring terminals because the modern thinwall cable was too fine to be gripped properly by the crimp. This is the main power coming through the ammeter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jVNbtbcqvpkscvSAm120FaeFQt3gniNdPCCMeIsfECwgIftupcG6TQXA9bTVoBSDurjPIOjD0sJ6rH7v8uM5R2FX3UyvF7VDjxDj3AOOq0g23hNMSq4NYQpaiaiZlYE7EN0ob9YGww=w1155-h866-no

In any case, my colour wiring diagram worked well and I was able to work my way through it all quite happily. There is a wire for the horn, one for the kill switch and a bundle for the headlamp left to be hooked up.

My headlamp has however gone walkabout, absolutely no idea where it is, can't find it, I pretty much emptied the workshop and it doesn't seem to be anywhere reachable in the shed. I'm getting quite close to just buying a new one.

Anyway, I left plenty of spare wire wrapped up fairly neatly inside the headlamp because I've had problems with bikes where it got too tight but never too loose. This way I can seperate and connect connectors with them fully outside the headlamp instead of trying to get both hands into a tiny gap and dislodging something else at the same time.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w-5mwJSyQ0uKrAYNY8cuzQN2Jg9DXU_FarkR0zdu5hz-D9u5jmyYq0w-G2f-gaTynrp0DJS36CUeiJL6bgabcgQxYIzFBf4Q24KQqFtywQzyjs34uAvIkyr4M2riqI3hRFoLCBkICA=w1155-h866-no

Having hooked it all up, I attached the battery and gingerly turned it on. No bangs. I turned on the sidelight switch and the ammeter immediately swung all the way over indicating a short. I was watching for it and quickly flicked it off again before anything popped/caught fire.

A little more thought and I realised it was actually the instrument backlights. Instead of checking, I guessed at which wire went to the outside of the holder. I guessed wrong and made them positive which was making them short against the clocks. Quickly switched those two wires over and...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1zsm4JHiivFFwP0tn8r064JBSyx118M5o1UUFEaxqJ3jb6JmTNpaK13vhXjzTi8dbhI4foLUXdekqIkNqKLSIVpnxoVGwdGlxRYw4ZCuiTIGHHU0BAgFMhJ2NQdSB4lTP7yRIUIxw=w1155-h866-no

A quick run around with a meter showed my lighting relays were functioning correctly and the brake and tail light are also working. The ammeter however, isn't. I broke the original one taking it out and this is a pretty dinged up spare which will swing for a short but isn't picking up the small current draw of the lights/points. I've just ordered a new one.

A check with a plug also reveals it has a spark!

So LED bulbs ordered for everything but the headlamp. New ammeter. Rear brake light switch and kill switch. I just need to hook up the horn, kill switch, rear brake switch, headlamp and the three wires for the taillight once I've fitted them but the wiring itself is done.

I'm having a look at the rear subrfame/mudguard (just needs a clean), chainguard, numberplate/lamp holder (manky and rusty) and rear brake lever after work this week. If I get a non-freezing, dry evening, I'll give them a paint.

i also need to summon up the will to make a longer brake cable and fit the speedo drive and chain to the rear wheel.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 27 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So many wires in that headlamp housing. On MZ i am working on, i spent 3m PPJ 5x2.5 and 4m PPJ 5X1.5 cables. If someone said it to me how much of wires there are, i would call him crazy. Almost all is in headlamp housing, just as in that one of yours.
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 10 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dekip wrote:
So many wires in that headlamp housing. On MZ i am working on, i spent 3m PPJ 5x2.5 and 4m PPJ 5X1.5 cables. If someone said it to me how much of wires there are, i would call him crazy. Almost all is in headlamp housing, just as in that one of yours.


Mine has a particularly complicated wiring system which I have made even more complicated by adding in relays (another 7 wires). The headlamp works on AC power and the rest of the bike runs on DC. The main power feed also comes up to the ammeter before it goes back to the rest of the bike electrics.

I haven't changed it because it works.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 11 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the headlamp looked pretty 'cable lite' to me and all quite stuffable
in the nacelle.
Bike headlamps are usually Rats nest junction because that location is where
most of the wiring interconnects and its all tucked away for protection
and to make the bike look tidy.
What year is the bike?
cant seem to find that, the diagram shows 12v negative ground
I wrongly assumed it was an elderly 6v/pos ground
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 2007 with a 3-phase alternator and -ve earth. The three phases are not equal like on a Japanese bike. The AC phase has a higher output than the two DC phases. You can re-jig them but it means re-soldering the stator.

Rubbish update. My camera battery went flat halfway through but I'll catch up next time.

All the wiring is done other than the rear brakelight switch. I've fitted a "dead mans switch" kill switch with a push-button and one of those cables you attach to the rider.

Also wired in he taillight/numberplate holder which is actually off a 1950's meteor minor. I've repainted it badly with a brush because it's been too cold/wet to go outside and spray it. The finish is easily twice as good as it had when I got it though and it wont rust. I've fitted an LED bulb but then realised it now doesn't have a white numberplate light (normally has a white section of the taillight lens). I'll take it to the MOt like this and if they notice, I'll put a conventional bulb back in for the test.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dzA2uF_1e781TAhK3y1KnHommW4Igq6CkjXMPUWTxqB7FMsMDqu1IhTSZFDWa_r4fz2EpSA2o2iOsWr1ekYkkxrkt6DD9WiUT6rbEMwCgJO9jtULHmqT5XqgbDOzbcylNmzsjEcjRQ=w1155-h866-no

In other news, Father Christmas came early! My folks and Mrs stinkwheel bought me a bike lift. I had to pick it up the other weekend, unload and assemble it. No mean task, it weighs in at 179kg and came in a wooden crate. Anyway, wow does this speed things up as well as saving my back! Should have got one years ago. You can see what you are doing and reach stuff.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LP5_kYnLIEVzdVV240APzLZ04m76jsRj_ZSspLaBAJCAtAYL8ltGPZLXYIUT8T81JumodXMZWkTJQeVSH9vtsaNHnexs72l_ns_y1nL3iF4KG2gnN4rJBPxHmKzUZtI1YQZ30KmEFg=w650-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sTcrymrVzV17T6-Cbv3Ykhx_wQKBau0ccJCqckDJqF5QHf2E44mIt3Lz0LEJk4fhDWwUaWWT61QozFpYemQQQC7kOOdTtKUfLf9eW0RBdErIqrM2epD3-Q_e1sEAGuVAjYX0mFbiKQ=w650-h866-no

Took the back wheel out again so I could fit the speedo drive. This is how they did it in the 60's. Just needed notches cutting in the end of the hub and the wheel spacer filing down 6mm so it slots into the fork-end of the swingarm to allow for the extra width the drive adds.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/phdu8aOX0ePL4zUhsYX88vNbSzr0ZQ3Y2-GF0Lra3I_AtZ6qkrFBn0nGy9LycL48HjCRiShulGgeWHSRrPtdS2oMrK258V9qms4uBf73Z7-J072cLTh-hEWaBiWRDb4PjCT69-6ciw=w1155-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/chpZ6qMcee0N3zI4N2Oc1pRIiQbFCbifHhIrf9Uos1YlaFqjcv3S6rvNYDnaPyHheu4RTBOBkCtBCW7m1q3CMC0WRBjVtO0bCGoXkpizHICOq3ebqajZYTreZlm5t1SD_oyhLhMZZQ=w1155-h866-no

It's as well I did because the wheel bearing fell out. Looks like it's spun-up in the hub.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fVP_EIe-L98JuKh8nJt4VaurdSKRFeskHdGzr64twidxuNCkr1CoVD8JKWUpPxwlaoCV_f21ASMlK2v1krwg7x1KQE268PH0x0zyR9-7hi6_9H_hjENm-9M5d-RVgPu0AM4JWvHOhQ=w1155-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iFpJjK_SqnXc1ckKH5xT7NlVfQuIzFnVnJmQY_khZD5n12r6RwsZeY-pnv7PJfN4rp8rxgNGdNuXF5s0Twb89GmK5A_BynkNS3TXyj7rzvhL7QLLD0EKl_NLz7WUAHp2LqDgsXpNaA=w1155-h866-no

No actual detectable play on it though, just not a tight fit so well within the capabilities of green bearing fit compound.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pYBHzSOTnirNycR7EsxmlPNWWY1Mad3TMzTW9i8wOg9nKmoW3UeOdZub87al93q4A0LoaOgcA8BLVKelQKrFUroUwEMey00Dhuuc_hZzkpgmt-bfF-v6UPcOSQX8z2MRCB7jP8KSw=w1155-h866-no

Rear brake assembly painted and fitted with nylon spacers. I'm very pleased with this. I'm less pleased with the droopy angle the footpeg sits at. I think I'll get some proper Sammy Miller replicas which will just bolt-onto the bracket I have.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pcs9qodY7VhRdSE8NTfZy08zbsoej4aCY9hmWs8paSZTcsYCveHjbBfeJdvgJr9X72ZJibYGZ7sz6J8eq7rakRWYGEk2MCo0233c7lRKwnDopbqxKuA6UYXj65HZlNOiCSyNzSsLVA=w1155-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ccvFtOp1d39wZhHeEeYFFYsJ2JMZnlYO63al5vB3WYyO3IlnKpZpAuzETIu-XmoqCHChCN0D5dEV9GPnoLOGDxLxEOd0mGKmvxoMw1mqn1VtRo6aXi9N5n8SDEn59g3RnzVzEDh4-w=w1155-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kyRxfBNgCVutSoyKjTi_vgmKfy3ZqSS8XOi9WP3wKNQgNAfZtGQ_Ubp-k5eJkohN2e6OwOm_zXPKYv17dxNuJCUOaGWpUY93UwXtxY-dhw4E9iaGgTm70dTxBq0OrU5oM-FlV_iDyA=w1155-h866-no

Chain on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I5yKaYcyTnjYz7NSs5zYiPXfHbh_U1_m4UFK0RDUw1xLXf9YJmKKqvTLE5oFMTvvoiF5zuJn7Mbt6HniWJASblOnelI6kZpBmD_UUgoF6231rmvyD46ZKcOjR4VT9cmRSB1i3ajsAw=w1155-h866-no

I've also fitted the rear subframe and mudguard, run the wiring along it and fitted the taillight and numberplate. The back-end is pretty much done.

Need to make a front brake cable, fit the decompressor cable, fabricate stays for the front mudguard, sort out a saddle, fill the forks with oil and paint and fit the tank. Oh, and see if it starts!

I'll be able to take it for a walk about in gear now it has a chain on to get the oilways primed.

Struggling to find reasonably priced replacements for the saddle springs, 3 of which have broken. It has 14 x 5.5" extension/upholstery springs. The standard ones are rubbish so I'm not buying another set of those but any others I can find are £££ by the time you've bought 14. I'm thinking of replacing them with paracord (there are still 6 shorter springs in there) or getting shorter ones for ehxaust slip-joints and making up the length with steel cable.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A7j-qIQDcQiaxP9JzMQG0ixG-cfcv4rxDYl15AL-eM-6EYX_3C30YAlSLmuSHY4iuysv4-zuoG6jA88hE9KTvMpsRxQ-hrx8rRsBeySp2wlvE1WAx5VhJ4-BIeJyYoZaYu1MDAKZhw=w1155-h866-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:03 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The simpler bikes appeal to me!

With the drooping foot pegs - unbolt them and try to remove the rubber sleeve. Then where the metal tube contacts the metal holder add a few small drops of weld on. Be very careful cos thin metal and will blow easily. Then file to size so that it doesn't droop. Better still if you have a hard facing rod because that won't wear down easily.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any point to gloves that torn Laughing

Looking at that photo I hope you remembered to put the clip on the master link Wink

I'll have a dig through my junk pile, I used to have a seat in that "spring style" I'll post a photo here if I find it...
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Is there any point to gloves that torn Laughing

Looking at that photo I hope you remembered to put the clip on the master link Wink

I'll have a dig through my junk pile, I used to have a seat in that "spring style" I'll post a photo here if I find it...


Obviously, they weren't torn when I put them on.

I actually need a mew master link, I had to remove the old one to get the chain on (I'm not removing the whole primary drive and swingarm to refit it). I'm not leaving it to the Christmas post though.

Be interested in your seat. Mine looks exactly like someone really heavy has been sat on it for 80k miles of all weather riding without washing it properly.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 01 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some pics to catch up.

Here's the rear subframe in place. Also attached the saddle (still needs the springs fitting, they are in vinegar for a de-rust then paint). The old knackered tank on here is handy for checking how things fit without worrying about marking the paint.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O1AqXyb0Cgv_1jespHMzYSzMX5VEJvF-0WHncqU_DDSEJBcenfVtr0OObGH7Xe8jSUco2lpGHzJUzvnQGTL-xJhshdfKSDZ0u0jdnLvQAopnEji2jI9g9hwgLMj2CjSLA9w4F6r7FQ=w1155-h866-no

Tail light and numberplate holder. This one is lower profile than standard and I've got it mounted higher to try to reduce the risk of damage from stones being flung up by the rear wheel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pb3ejg1MQFDdjyDL06TNUgGWIrKnKB7A9RlR6glqfqI16QiqH3YwlxOYeKAqb_HjWIxIZr4SCMyaD3coTGWqpGSUAAhQNPQpwd6p457jUMhMO8-GpOxi5RL_ZDQh36vY0aQodP4uHQ=w650-h866-no

Headlamp with "eyebrow" fitted. This insert had provision for a pilot light. I haven't fitted one on the basis it already has two sidelights. Hopefully ok with the MOT guy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ry71hva844SKyxlqXFg_AvP11itP-oelUn7bHbisKsUdu_2_wXETN3ejw3sDEPWRBu27PrPj-dq_iCJUf0Nko46Ipw7w7oIjgUWGjOU6m06oiiHo113reRfYkg5vlNLruJofcLjP3w=w650-h866-no

"Dead mans" switch.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qOdD_weFkb8VxbwIz8NIcUyxdREbfsCGCsHSmyXk2cLpKg71xENsYEAGXMyGQo4tndX7caCLlQ7XI-4CjNJPBFNBDtm3YUwM_bKwyXwwtfDX4QMXuGCqSmAk32zV7Uppo2-dVAXUOQ=w1155-h866-no

Decompressor fitted. Had top make up a custom cable to use the shorty lever type decompressor.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AFiDsBKzqrizOMRN4tt5YrC8oIV9Rrz2L_N5fxNwgxOU9ERjHVH83BzD33l8FojM_d2i8DJwWR4H7PNGMj-vm5ifTAvSZf6onhVEtBa403lxCUw6FewOWG-m386l5TkdObXIHB_Oug=w650-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DkYCc3Gvd59s40MUpIrrjlr6iegItytmXnnP7U76B2bXdg5J-JbCRxFau9eERpMEpNbuCcQuWiuN9l-LNw2bKbyghoOkKtbkQBpWGYRoB3OMzAYKTu2EY4uL3BL6WqRT-_VsEkgupQ=w1155-h866-no

I also spent ages kicking it over to get the oilways primed. Feed pump showed oil at the quill bolt quite quickly. I was having little success geting oil at the rockers until I forced oil through with an oil can. I think there must have been an airlock on the scavenge side. Didn't take any serious force on the can though so there isn't a blockage. I'll need to keep an eye on the oiling when it first starts though.

I actually spent most of today stripping the paint off the chainguard. The stuff's like adamantium where it hasn't rusted. I landed up hitting it twice with (proper) nitromorse, scraping the worst off then wire-wheeling it "wet"... Nasty!

I've also been spraying the tank. It's the one that came with my 612 but it had some dings in which would have runined the candy paint finish. It's been sat in primer/fillcoat in the shed for ages. I'm doing it with flat white plastikote enamel paint because I'm impatient and it's a really forgiving paint which is touch-dry in about half an hour.

Unlike me, I even flatted down the first coat. This is three coats over black primer. I'd bought small rattle cans not realising just how smal they are (only hold 100ml) so there are three cans full on now. It'll need another couple of coats to cover. I don't think it'll need laquer, the enamel should be fuel proof and this way i'll be able to mist over any damage it sustains in use.

Quite chuffed how that's looking.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m4YnzYc3LMNV1XclgII98utreM0WNfsGnPaEv3ZN-J9YJm8rbKojFAg2148o_BOccill46vSmPYx3bf4GNI-GKYJMAhLP-dZeWZK9sTuiwbx4fs0r81kHTmb4pDWRL18LS_tcHlphg=w1155-h866-no

I've done a list of stuff to be done and stuff to order because I want to be using this bike second weekend in February. Ideally mostly run-in and having had its first service. (running in will be short, just needs to bed the rigs in then tighten everything up after, it's a roller hearing crank).

Main bit of fabrication left is the front mudguard stays and a new cable. The rest is finishing, setup and lubes.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:45 - 02 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That reminds me: the spring seat I had was for push-bike Rolling Eyes Same all-springs style but smaller. Soz!
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dekip
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 02 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. Tank will be in the same color?
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My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 17:44 - 02 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the tank is going to be white. I MIGHT put a black stripe down the middle using vinyl.

Early finish tonight so got a couple of bits done.

Here's a pic of the new saddle mounting bracket I made up yesterday. Lacks finesse but better than the original. The dodgy looking nut and bolt is there to lock the "main" nut in position then I turn the bracket to tighten it down. You can't get a spanner on it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NiPLg-JqieJFkFBrk8dXsv1dVENabvYh-6JTx9YuStBS0byvcMACQXeNkiYwzVGg35H-jTTHfIG55UgslW77PD6_7jnOrPGmnDlF81-UuhvkG8aZmlrmVtSsh4yrZa6hP6be86dhcw=w1155-h866-no

For Easy-X.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7q4nCSoOrKv6Rmc3hnbUSmUzvRgDAvjng1SYoHaexeHZ1hmNdmKHUXTsmllOlR3rvmL_RLXqmkBfSlY2OODP4LE9T27t53MMzlQ85qxJHJKqr8rM7SvtBdv9Wa9A2lPn_VbqGe-N8g=w1155-h866-no

Newly painted chainguard on.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kN7BAy7ztdHO5KJpcNL3F8V8qM6Ad0e068yx-P9a0AltfTfIzsYEmZMmjUhnVZSXB_VdQ5PmUDvF9_BQeLlFpvgAqnG79QQVp6RSvOJR5P5VTKEo9zk2MOQDicaNGBrwqkQN1zaCOw=w1155-h866-no

I set the ignition timing to a ballpark 8mmBDTC at fully advanced. No point being too fussy, there's a huge amount of backlash on the timing side. Needs to be close enough to get it running then adjust from there.

This shows the little dished washer under the allen head that you can use to lock the points cam in fully advanced position (the advance/retard is a bit random, it spends most of the time fully advanced anyway so it's better and easier to set it here. Also the special tool for dismounting the cam lobe so you can rotate it onthe shaft if you run out of adjustment lying on the top of the crankcase.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gYOXF1qBdVyzX0cyDQRdx30j5zFewxQIZ8eNH_boCksCav0q5NmbTzwyZ4U8_bpZfyC10LksHDSZdRWfBCz21VQ7d_Zvwu6gR8jSQmdhnB_WVzSKma3RX1jIjCBAA6BuKYSIHoagGw=w1155-h866-no

And a very simple toool for setting timing before TDC.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/odXfRomfqw8g00-b6m1hoZsxgNx1zKsvdjJLmxBtZ2YvTUAzixFan19NTpJDROFGOOn0rW3XiMzTPl72mg8lTyqgPejqHqeGu9QSBbDuggBLgXuAMXDUhWj3B87-Xgsv0zU_9k--vA=w1155-h866-no

Grips on and nasty cheap farbon bar ends so I can fit my muffs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gqu1QjVnJIJjkVFpeOaoCqmqBqlpvsAPHH6vWO0JNDvfjCbM1WHrgBxp62cjPBFyZ_V1GfDGUfNWjpGqPPCEu3hrMS7e6aEDOYFI_EC--hEydM6Cjmjd6CS98ybqKOBYeQkolI-ddg=w1155-h866-no

Also fettled the sidestand bracket so it fits properly without the footpeg on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K5r6IxgR2NtiyQ290TYzJXbYH0E2wAK0ztsCGlXlM4Jg2y42ZBQWDtsGnbRMVlA90u9MjPh0A00MB30CTuKZcc8ZJrokdskDIRO3qciE1wCxeDYx1prqVfjizvSslTtz7XndGUVVAQ=w1155-h866-no

Just put in a huge order for the remaining parts.I just remembered I didn't add a lifting handle. They usually have one fotted on the left to assist putting them on the mainstand but it occurrs to me that it would be dead handy to have one on both sides for if I need to drag it out of a ditch/wheelrut.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 03 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epic win! Dance! Dance!

We have a motorcycle.

https://youtu.be/mvoGCZ4kfKY

Relay controlled AC headlight also works!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 03 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
For Easy-X.


Wouldn't be the first time I've been described as "the missing link" Laughing
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 03 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very well done, Mr. Stinkwheel. It looks and sounds lovely. Thumbs Up
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:12 - 04 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounded good the engine.
Laughed at your expressionless concentration. A bit more fettling and it'll be just right.

What are the handlebar switches off? They remind me of late 70s Jap stuff but chunkier.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 08:57 - 04 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
Sounded good the engine.
Laughed at your expressionless concentration. A bit more fettling and it'll be just right.

What are the handlebar switches off? They remind me of late 70s Jap stuff but chunkier.


Honda C50/90 left hand switchgear.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 27 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 04 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome sound, my friend.
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 06 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steel for the mudguard stays arrived today. I've never bent steel tube before and this went amazingly well.

Got some 10mm diameter by 1mm wall mild steel tube. I filled it with silver sand and packed it well down with a bit of round bar and a hammer. Just used duct tape on the ends.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mss-0syJX02CW_6Xe2jvbcauD64_RNNde8ao0cQ3Sj_L-jrH9eEAd1SFxFUfBCtZKpA8-PqEzGDtFb6jz8Rpsm-k1wYA_-_Seme8CyJRwtxRfOlZw38Efbgf1q6586ibhuR4rZz7VQ=w1155-h866-no

Clamped a bit of scrap alloy tube of roughly the diameter I want the bend in the vice as a form (badly clamped) then clamped the tube to the outside of the form with a mole grip. Then I just bent it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3N3XNL2tC1vSgSfBsQt1anQ5np8lqI82xty6BVM5hSSwHVQZlHTTw8_nUZ7LWk40q_nODzgPq672ZCK0aEAQ0StRvxsGYNLrn6F6ceqBwX8J25YzOoG-RpdMmtj-1WyM6nxXODUJ8Q=w1155-h866-no

I'm impressed with how well and easily this went.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mUaOZCCvO_0hoaDtPqq6ohp2mBFKdpuWOd__ZXiG-7LkJ1OMb98EEleBca4GqrVb4F3PD3ZtngaxhIYkiuWHSsadEaWcDn5zjEx2xuwNriZ_eQ6xC_o62p61jT-Wj1daF1O1YWtwdg=w650-h866-no

I didn't use a mole grip on the first attempt and that was a mistake because it tries to bend elsewhere at a single point but I was able to straighten it and have another go. Not quite as neat a bend but passable so I'll make that the back one.

I videoed my second bend for a mate who is doing a similar job for a rack but is pissing about with heat and has already wrecked his first lot of steel and had to order more. Not made with high production values!
https://youtu.be/95JAMQAzDE8

Also got the trials footpegs. They are weld-on ones. I'm going to need to make a new bracket so I can bolt them on and tack-weld. The "legs" will need to be a bit longer so I can fit a bolt in there and the peg will "stop" against the bolt head instead of the back of the bracket. Bit of a pain because I can't bend a small and tight enough width U in flatbar wioth the tools I have (vice jaws are too big). I've ordered a bit of box-section that's got close to the correct dimensions. Steel is not expensive.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UkEeoZWwW4yZwInstrRhC3EglJXjQXsU_X_wGIogAcnu2ozhHoAhE2aVUAXmTM_nW-RJkhMI21N7SB_UaLWEQs_s0SvuyVEqZGEkPHzvZ8WSLnSnBT672kRpszou5x20UJimGwLiw=w1155-h866-no

The one thing I hadn't really picked up on when i ordered these is that they are specifically designed as weld-on brackets but are also bright-zinc plated. I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure electric arc welding and BZP are poor bed-fellows in terms of toxic fumes.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 07 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welding? Don't breathe ANY fumes regardless of plating. Yes Zinc is nasty but metals often have coatings from storage after the mill/factory and it's not nice stuff. It's usually the waste oil and grease and if China is giving it away with products then it'll contain things even they deem as nasty..

Well done with the bends - Delboy fails miserably with basic metal forming on everything he does but you nailed it with this.
One thing though (with tube and all other profiles of stock) is to use a form of a slightly smaller size to bend around. The reason being that bit of spring back making the bent metal a bit bigger than the form. Smaller forms take you to where you want to be.
Either way that's a great lesson for people - you don't need pipe benders all of the time. If you go down the rarely used tools route you'll waste so much money. Keep things simple.
In the video I did think that you were going to have man s*x with it..
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 07 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It lives !
Sounds great
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 09 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put the fork oil in and fitted the end caps last night.

Hilareous. The static sag is 100% of the fork travel, there is literally no compression left with it parked on the stand Laughing

The springs must have gone plastic while it's been parked up. I've ordered a new pair (£30 the pair). I've gone heavy duty despite it being for offroad because the travel is limited and I'm a big bastard. I'll use thinner oil to reduce the damping effect so they can respond to bumpy bits. If it lands up too bouncy, I might go back to thicker oil and drill the shim-stack on the damper rod.

I have optimistically booked an MOT for next Thursday. If I fix the springs and fit the seat and rear brake switch, it should be MOTable, the front mudguard isn't structural anyway so no matter if it's not finished in time.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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