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350 bullet Trials redux

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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Owwww !
That diagram!
Take it down before somebody sees it!

I always sketch it out on paper before commiting to anything printable
especially when working on the fly when other/better ideas
and mods may occur.
One page per system helps clarify things as well
One for charging, one for ignition, lights etc

Then, when you get to the stage of creating a single sheet diagram
to publish in colour whichever software you eventually use,
the sketches notes and amendments will help build a coherent diagram and
you'll be less likely to make the howlers above.

I often use photoshop and pen tool then stroke in with brush and pencil
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1979 CX500 - Zanussi Wd12: - LG Combi Multiwave - Swan 4 slice toaster with removable crumb tray
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howlers?

It's not supposed to be neat. It's to show me the position of the wires and connectors on the bike more than to make a neat diagrammatic representation of the circuits.

It's a vector graphic so colours/wires can be changed at a click and componants/wires can be grouped, anchored and dragged. If I change something, I just mark the change on the printout and go back and alter the diagram. I might do a "neat" version later for fault-finding purposes, this is a working document.

I already have a "proper" wiring diagram showing the circuit layout but it doesn't help lace it all up coherantly because there are some things which are fixed, including the available wire colours in the multicore cables and the wire colours on the componants themselves. I've used a different lighting switch and added relays to handle the A/CD/C lighting through a switch that was designed for a split lighting coil.

In essense, there is a big 10-core cable that runs from the teacaddy to the headlamp. I've left it long and stripped the outer off once it enters these then cut the individual wires down to an appropriate length as they reach the componants/splits/joins. They're all hooked up at the teacaddy end.

I now have a bundle of 9 long wires sticking out into the headlamp area. If you follow each wire from the centre of the diagram, it comes to each connection it has to make in the order it needs to be connected. I just need to work along it. Where 4 cross, I need two wires in each crimp and so-on. Some of them go direct to the componant. Others need to be looped on to the next.

So like the grey wire is for side/tail lights. It'll come into the headlight and be cut where it meets the yellow wire coming out of the switch. I'll apply a female bullet connector to the end with a second bit of grey wire in that connector. The yellow will have a male bullet and the second grey will go on to the sidelights.

The green is the AC return and will be bundled in shrinktube with the white and yellow from my relay module and attached to an H4 bulb connector block.

The brown will attach to the ammeter with a ring terminal. I'll probably change the layout here so another two brown wires attach to the same post. one will have a bullet connector to the brown and black coming out of the headlamp switch. The other will be shrinktubed to the blue and run out to the brake switch.

And so-on.

It's working well so far.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SfzDsYwSND_1_a-JBI0ryplS8McURUxJxbf1OSgq1wIRibHWsYPQcKUm7uWyEfQTkfaJBfHOaV3BSxpnProKxpyJ6wSZzn7RWvuJe7pvj4bolxJcKygAWi0UYhX0oNwDdq6luvKGCA=w1092-h696-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Owwww !
That diagram!
Take it down before somebody sees it!

I always sketch it out on paper before commiting to anything printable
especially when working on the fly when other/better ideas
and mods may occur.
One page per system helps clarify things as well
One for charging, one for ignition, lights etc

Then, when you get to the stage of creating a single sheet diagram
to publish in colour whichever software you eventually use,
the sketches notes and amendments will help build a coherent diagram and
you'll be less likely to make the howlers above.

I often use photoshop and pen tool then stroke in with brush and pencil


Hmm? I've haven't looked at that one for years. Just the first thing I found that was vaguely relevant to the conversation, i.e. "can it do coloured wires?"

What did I get wrong BTW? Not that the vehicle that it was intended for even exists any more Smile
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Yamaha DT175 (WIP) Honda Rebel, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter,
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's it 90% wired up now.

Not a great update because it doesn't look much different from the last time but there's a good few hours work gone into it.

Note to self: Buy a ratchet crimping tool for non-insulated terminals... The manual crimping die works well but after a few dozen with two crimps on each, gets a little wearing!

First issue, the wires on my C50 switchgear don't reach into the casquette because of my massively long and wide handlebars. I don't like the option of connecting them out in the open because they're going to get covered in mud and water and shite.

So I soldered a length of wire (in my selected colours rather than the honda colours) to the end of each and shrink-tubed over it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/014h9ES8CFbvtorFm5nG-9OkqqL2cKXJLizTBM15nMKR3TWcL6kj67QqxxPO-JiJ_FJGGsYqX4A98nF0_2essiQaBMz4oe7pM7TYyu9mgkHwKXXuce9oTEmutzgl0YSJ0ki6gUC1aA=w1155-h866-no

I don't mind soldered joints when neither end or both ends are supported. If one end is supported, it's a recipe for disaster because the solder causes a stress riser in the cable and the heat of soldering anneals the wire just below it. All the flex happens at one point and the inner snaps inside the insulation.

Anyway, wrapped the whole lot in self-amalgamating tape afterwards so no chance of water getting in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y6ifaEfuzPfDRYTjNTPDkdf4kLybtwuPXIR-VWZWw8yyq9j8pzCdPDxfiWYNKvldHcPI73JWHSU1x-i9k1esPNfrDY8NNwzokWTEJoxB9Xi5Mp6u6BN0p0aBphdcLyKoXuaxhtpC-w=w1155-h866-no

Having said all that abotu solder, I had to solder these ring terminals because the modern thinwall cable was too fine to be gripped properly by the crimp. This is the main power coming through the ammeter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jVNbtbcqvpkscvSAm120FaeFQt3gniNdPCCMeIsfECwgIftupcG6TQXA9bTVoBSDurjPIOjD0sJ6rH7v8uM5R2FX3UyvF7VDjxDj3AOOq0g23hNMSq4NYQpaiaiZlYE7EN0ob9YGww=w1155-h866-no

In any case, my colour wiring diagram worked well and I was able to work my way through it all quite happily. There is a wire for the horn, one for the kill switch and a bundle for the headlamp left to be hooked up.

My headlamp has however gone walkabout, absolutely no idea where it is, can't find it, I pretty much emptied the workshop and it doesn't seem to be anywhere reachable in the shed. I'm getting quite close to just buying a new one.

Anyway, I left plenty of spare wire wrapped up fairly neatly inside the headlamp because I've had problems with bikes where it got too tight but never too loose. This way I can seperate and connect connectors with them fully outside the headlamp instead of trying to get both hands into a tiny gap and dislodging something else at the same time.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w-5mwJSyQ0uKrAYNY8cuzQN2Jg9DXU_FarkR0zdu5hz-D9u5jmyYq0w-G2f-gaTynrp0DJS36CUeiJL6bgabcgQxYIzFBf4Q24KQqFtywQzyjs34uAvIkyr4M2riqI3hRFoLCBkICA=w1155-h866-no

Having hooked it all up, I attached the battery and gingerly turned it on. No bangs. I turned on the sidelight switch and the ammeter immediately swung all the way over indicating a short. I was watching for it and quickly flicked it off again before anything popped/caught fire.

A little more thought and I realised it was actually the instrument backlights. Instead of checking, I guessed at which wire went to the outside of the holder. I guessed wrong and made them positive which was making them short against the clocks. Quickly switched those two wires over and...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1zsm4JHiivFFwP0tn8r064JBSyx118M5o1UUFEaxqJ3jb6JmTNpaK13vhXjzTi8dbhI4foLUXdekqIkNqKLSIVpnxoVGwdGlxRYw4ZCuiTIGHHU0BAgFMhJ2NQdSB4lTP7yRIUIxw=w1155-h866-no

A quick run around with a meter showed my lighting relays were functioning correctly and the brake and tail light are also working. The ammeter however, isn't. I broke the original one taking it out and this is a pretty dinged up spare which will swing for a short but isn't picking up the small current draw of the lights/points. I've just ordered a new one.

A check with a plug also reveals it has a spark!

So LED bulbs ordered for everything but the headlamp. New ammeter. Rear brake light switch and kill switch. I just need to hook up the horn, kill switch, rear brake switch, headlamp and the three wires for the taillight once I've fitted them but the wiring itself is done.

I'm having a look at the rear subrfame/mudguard (just needs a clean), chainguard, numberplate/lamp holder (manky and rusty) and rear brake lever after work this week. If I get a non-freezing, dry evening, I'll give them a paint.

i also need to summon up the will to make a longer brake cable and fit the speedo drive and chain to the rear wheel.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 27 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So many wires in that headlamp housing. On MZ i am working on, i spent 3m PPJ 5x2.5 and 4m PPJ 5X1.5 cables. If someone said it to me how much of wires there are, i would call him crazy. Almost all is in headlamp housing, just as in that one of yours.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 10 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dekip wrote:
So many wires in that headlamp housing. On MZ i am working on, i spent 3m PPJ 5x2.5 and 4m PPJ 5X1.5 cables. If someone said it to me how much of wires there are, i would call him crazy. Almost all is in headlamp housing, just as in that one of yours.


Mine has a particularly complicated wiring system which I have made even more complicated by adding in relays (another 7 wires). The headlamp works on AC power and the rest of the bike runs on DC. The main power feed also comes up to the ammeter before it goes back to the rest of the bike electrics.

I haven't changed it because it works.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 11 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the headlamp looked pretty 'cable lite' to me and all quite stuffable
in the nacelle.
Bike headlamps are usually Rats nest junction because that location is where
most of the wiring interconnects and its all tucked away for protection
and to make the bike look tidy.
What year is the bike?
cant seem to find that, the diagram shows 12v negative ground
I wrongly assumed it was an elderly 6v/pos ground
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