125 pit bike clutch help

[Siclic]

Hi I’m new to bikes, I’m fixing my brothers moto vert 125 pit bike and the clutch won’t engage, so I’ve pulled the case off n it’s a clutch system I’ve never seen before. I will post some pics, any info would be much appreciated...so I’ve tried to attach a pic but it won’t let me, I’ll figure out what to do shortly
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Ml

[Easy-X]

The forum attachment system ain't the easiest I suggest you upload it to one of the many photo sites and post a link.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Riejufixing]

[Siclic]

Hopefully these pics help
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Ml

[Easy-X]

Hey, you're right... I haven't seen one like that either

Hopefully one of the esteemed forum members knows something...
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Siclic]

[Riejufixing]

Of any interest?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlGE9eFMVT0

It actually looks like a fairly conventional clutch under that disguise... I'd guess you have an issue in the actuating mechanism. Clearance mechanism/cable??

[stinkwheel]

Never seen one like that either. It looks backwards compared to a conventional clutch setup. I'm struggling to get my head around it

Is it a dry clutch? (was it sitting in oil?)

From the positioning of the springs, it looks like the moving pressure plate is at the back pulling the stack towards the outside of the cage (nearest the camera)? Hence the gap at the back of the clutch cage. So the fixed pressure plate (which would normally form the back of the clutch basket) is actually the shinmy disc neasrest the camera. Presumably done because they had no room to manouver around that flywheel

What goes up the middle of that ball bearing? There must be a pretty wide shaft sticking out of the inside of the side cover which I guess must go through the bearing to push on the pressure plate and release the stack? Or mayber it pulls from the other side.

Which side does the clutch cable go to?

Pic of inside of cover please.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

[Riejufixing]

[stinkwheel]

[Siclic]

[Siclic]

[Siclic]

So this is a pic off the net, but it’s exactly the same as mine
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Ml

[Siclic]

So I just found out that disc looking thing in front of the clutch is called an oil flicker or spitter n has nothing to do with the clutch dynamics
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Ml

[Riejufixing]

[Riejufixing]

[Siclic]

Has anyone looked at the pics on my last post, I really need to know how that clutch system works, cmon world chat champions..haha Cheers
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Ml

[stinkwheel]

That pad inside the cover pushes directly on the inner race of the ball bearing to disengage the clutch. it all looks in good-order from the pictures.

[Siclic]

[Siclic]

[Riejufixing]

[stinkwheel]

Well. If you had normal pressure on the clutch lever (it isn't just pulling back with little or no resistance), the pressure plate is being pushed back against the springs like it's supposed to be.

That leaves two main options (although something physically broken inside the clutch is also possible):

1) The clutch plates are stuck together.

2) The clutch hub is notched so the plain plates can't move along it.

I doubt the second case is true because I can't see any notching on the basket and that usually goes first.

Couple of ways of freeing off stuck plates. One is to hold the brakes on, give it some revs and change into first. Rinse and repeat until it does it without stalling but beware of the risk of wheelying away.

Another is to prop the rear wheel securely off the ground, change into first but keep the clutch pulled in. Once the rear wheel is spinning reasonably quickly, put the back brake on. Rinse and repeat until it no longer stalls. Again, risk of wheelying across the yard if it's not securely on the stand

However, you've already got it partially stripped so if it were me, I'd go ahead and take the spinner off, remove those 4 bolts and take the plates out, wipe them and put them back in again one at a time. While you're in there you can check for notches and make sure the centre nut is still on tight. If something's broken in there, it should be obvious.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WD Forte]

I see you now know that big wheel is actually the oil slinger and nowt to do with the clutch
that clutch works just like the one in my old CX
and probably many other bikes too
Activated by the lever and cable, the plunger pushes in on the bearing inner race and so takes tension off the springs which allows the clutch plates to slip.

One issue I have experienced myself and seen on similar bikes
is if/when the nut below that thrust bearing works loose, it can
unscrew, rise up the thread and stop the bearing being pushed in

The clutch lever feels rock hard if it happens when you're riding and desperately trying to use the gears
to help your shite brakes slow the bike down as you approach say a roundabout at high speed.

(Rumours I shat myself and screamed like a girl are just that,Rumours.
Nobody saw me do it you can't prove nuthin ok?)

You'll have to remove the 4 bolts and thrust plate to see if the nuts come loose and tighten it up again.
You may also need castellated socket as well, I do on mine.

NB i agree you'd expect to see a kosher thrust bearing used
here, but that common radial type is usually quite reliable
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bikers smell of wee

[Siclic]