After some advice/guidance restoring a '99 Hornet.

[Kezh]

Hi folks,

I've been offered a '99 CB600F as a hand down after recently getting my license, however it has been sat unused for coming on 10 years and I'm not 100% sure where to start.

The bike was well looked after and in good condition prior to it being put away, but after going to see it today, it has definitely seen better days(Obviously).

Other than fluids, brakes, tyres, battery, rubber parts etc. what is required in order to get this bike back to its glory days?

My knowledge of bike maintenance goes as far as basic service stuff, so this is a little out of my league. Any advice/pointers appreciated.

I've attached images of the bike in its current condition.

There is also a picture in there of the bike when it looked its best.

[stinkwheel]

I'd concentrate on getting it running first before blowing your wad on running gear. Being a 90's honda, there's a fair chance most of it will be ok.

It's clearly been out in the rain for a long time.

If it was me. First thing I'd do is get a socket on the end of the crank and make sure it turns over. I'd drain the oil and coolant, see what the stuff that comes out looks like. If it all looks good, flush through the coolant system and stick some fresh fluids in.

I'd have a damned good look in the tank, drain any fuel and if it's rusty, see if that's saveable. If it's clean I'd give it a swill out with fresh fuel and check the tap is working.

I'd be very tempted to pull the carbs and give them a clean, expecially if the rubbers are perished.

Evict any mice from the airbox and clean/replace the air filter.

Check the coils for corrosion round the earths and connectors. Likewise the plug caps. Consider fresh plugs.

Having done all that, I'd get a charged battery hooked up to it and see if the electrics work and the engine turns over. After turning it over for a bit to let oil circulate, I'd hook up the fuel and see if it'll fire up.

Once it's running, then start the long process of de-yakking it. From the looks of it you're going to need chain and sprockets, tyres, probably cables, high likleyhood you'll need to fully strip and service the callipers and master cylinders.

Those dominator headlights were shit when they were new, I'd be fitting a round headlamp. From past experience, the sort of person who fitted dommies also made a dogs dinner of the wiring that used to be in the back of the original headlight. The front indicators are ropy, the rear ones aren't even road legal (too close together).

It'll probably need fork seals. Stanchions seem to have some rust which may or may not clean up.

Some corrosion on the radiator, it may or may not be good. Likewise hoses.

I'd be surprised if you get this back on the road in anything like good order for less than £1000. By the time you've got 2 tyres, chain and sprockets, oil and filters, calliper service kits, MC service kits, brake pads, fork seals, headlamp, flashers, new battery, rubbers/hoses and so on, you're pretty much into 4 figures.

Just so you're aware this isn't a "free" bike. It's probably worth doing because they were decent bikes in their day but it's going to take a lot of work to get it back to properly functional. Even more work to getting it looking good.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Bhud]

I would guess the owner doesn't like junk littering their property, and it probably belonged to a family member who's unreliable and has failed to pick it up. Is that correct? In any case, try to find out why it was laid up.

Oil, coolant, carb cleaner, tank de-ruster, new brake pistons, brake fluid, carb rubbers, etc. Plus a chain. These things cost money. Money which you'd perhaps have better put towards a running bike. At this point, who knows? Just a thought.

Some people call them projects. I've done plenty, and I now call them shitters. The nicest possible description of most of them is "false economy". I'm only going to get nice/new bikes from now on. What you've got there is a low mileage decent quality and superbly engineered bike that was set to one side for some reason (what?), and if it's fine, then all you've got to look at is oil, filter, chain, tyres, etc. In which case, take it. If it's more, then run. You see, bikes of that type were taken for granted by idiots who thought they were bulletproof (they weren't - all bikes need proper maintenance). Most new bikes are overweight and underpowered. So it's worth having if it's good and all it needs are basic maintenance items.

You've got to know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em, know when to walk away, and, know when to RUN.

Now, there's a possibility the owner is just being kind to you, in which case definitely snap up that bike. Look that gift horse right in the mouth and investigate for faults. I suggest a compression test as well as testing the electrics with a fully charged battery.

[stinkwheel]

Just to give you an idea of what you are taking on. Here's a blog of me doing up my old VFR which is a similar age to that bike and had been left sitting for a similar length of time.

Now I started from a place of knowing what was wrong with it because the 10 years of neglectful abandonment were down to me. That one had been stored indoors and I knew it had a good engine. As you can see, you're looking at taking off and at least inspecting if not cleaning and re-building pretty much every cycle part on the bike.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=334031
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Kezh]

[Bhud]

[Easy-X]

The other thing to consider over the financial costs is recycling. There was an environmental cost to building the bike in the factory and the decent thing to do would be get it back on the road so that cost isn't wasted.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Islander]

One more piece of advice, take lots of photos as you dismantle parts and label electrical connectors and sockets - you'll be glad you did when you reassemble it. If you replace control cables (clutch, throttle) run the new ones alongside the old so that you get the routing right. Take it slowly and be patient. If you strip the carbs for cleaning then do them one at a time so that you don't mix parts up. Remember you'll need new gaskets and 'o' rings. Rebuild kits are available from carb specialists.

Oh and buy some proper penetrating oil - something like Plus Gas and use it freely on nuts, bolts and screws.

[stinkwheel]

Get the proper factory workshop manual too. It doesn't explain HOW to do things but it does have detailed diagrams or the parts, diagrams of how cables and hoses are routed and all the measurements, specs, fluid types, tighening torques and volumes.

Importantly, it has the order of operations for how to dismantle and reassemble things. So what you take off first, second and third which can be the difference between success and failure.

Haynes/clymer manuals will give you more about to do things but not necessarily as good at what to do in what order.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Fullers1845]

I'm in a similar situation, my wife's uncle passed away a few months ago and he had a 2000 ZX6R laid up in the garage, 37K miles but not been run in about 6 years, but 1 owner from new and never been thrashed, raced or crashed, and he was very particular about servicing and cleaning.

It got written off against my wife's share of the estate for £400 as it was a non-runner and the front had partially seized.

I'm doing the work myself and I reckon with parts it's going to cost about £800 to £900 plus a whole lot of time and faffage to get back on the road, but that's part of the fun for me.

I'd say go for it, if you don't have much experience then this would be great for learning, it really doesn't look too bad.

Very satisfying and you will know everything is properly sorted and there are no hidden surprises.

Watch out the infamous Japanese crosshead screws (they usually have a little dot on top, but not always) a set of J type drivers isn't expensive.

[Polarbear]

I'd certainly go for it as you know the history of the bike. I presume you have somewhere to work on it where the lady of the house isn't going to moan about you using her kitchen for bike rebuilds .

If you enjoy spannering it will be interesting and educational. If you don't, well that's when you start rushing bits and things start to go wrong.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[A100man]

Pff, you guys.. a wipe over with an oily rag and she'll be good as new


..more seriously provided you're a) not in a hurry and b) not looking to sell on for a profit, have a go. Nothing more satisfying than rescuing the fallen.
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