Rear wheel alignment

[shadywiki]

Morning all,

I am new to DIY motorbike maintenance and have recently replaced the chain and both sprockets on my FZS600. In attempting to align the rear wheel, I loosen off both locking nuts and unwind all the way out.

The axle on the right side on the swing arm doesnt move, where as the left side where the sprocket is, it loosens off and pushes right the way forward with the tension.

Upon nipping up both nuts, the chain goes tight.

So, in my mind, I need to get the right side to push forwards to match the left, but it won't.

Any ideas?

[A100man]

Fazer? Sprocket is on the left hand side isn't it?
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[shadywiki]

Yes, thats where the sprocket is.

So the sprocket side moves forwards when the alignment nut is loosened, where as the right side when loosened doesn't shift.

[Easy-X]

Might want to mention the year along with the model.

Regardless, almost every swing arm has some version of a slot on both sides for the rear axle to sit in i.e. the axel can move forward and back while staying perpendicular to the arms. It sounds like either the axel, adjuster or both is seized on one side.

A few taps with a rubber mallet (or hammer + block of wood) might free it up but worst ways you might have to drop the back wheel out.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[shadywiki]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

It’s probably the brake caliper bracket snagging.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4165917/fzs600-fazer-5dm7-2000-070-b/rear-wheel

[shadywiki]

So i've got the back wheel off, and the adjusters move freely inside the swing arm. The only thing thats tight and won't budge is the bolt/joint where the torque arm meets the caliper bracket.

It'll move up and down, but won't sort of pivot left and right. In my mind, if the adjusters are to move inwards and outwards within the swing arm, then surely this should have some level of play in it to allow adjustement? Is this correct?

I've taken a pic (as per the link below) of what I think should have some play in it. Please correct me if i'm way off.

https://imgur.com/M3Fvt2m

[doggone]

That needs to pivot, the brake caliper can then rotate slightly as the spindle moves forward or back.
The bolt is too tight or rusted up, it needs releasing even if that means it cutting off and driving the remains out.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Buy some.wd40. Spray it.liberally on that joint and then give it some muscle. Do that repeatedly.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Islander]

[shadywiki]

Thanks all, much appreciated!

[MCN]

All penetrating/release oil is Snake Oil/Shite.
It has more to do with psychological effect than freeing stuck stuff.

Elbow grease or heat are the only methods that work.

Anyway... the axle sits in a block inside the swing arms.
Make sure both blocks are slippery slidery inside the swing Arms. A bit of moly-grease will help. But mostly washes out over time.

Then you'll have to do a rear wheel alignment using string.
Or if you have a nice 'straight' length of wood.

There are tons of video on YouTube that explains how to set up the rear wheel straight.

When you have it straight, the chain is then tensioned by turning the adjuster one turn each as the chain slack get to specification. Rotate the wheel to find the section of chain with least slack. That is the place to set the slack. And lock everything up.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Islander]

[Pete.]

Loosen the rear bolt on the torque arm and the carrier should pivot on the bolt.

Once you've got it moving you can adjust your chain. Replace the wheel, axle and nut. Bump it forward using a hammer on the tyre. Get the chain fitted and pull the wheel back on the adjusters. Use the marks on the side, or even the gap from slot to axle as a guid to get the wheel pulled back evenly.

You're looking for about 30mm total up/down play on the chain in the middle of the run AFTER the nut is tightened. When you tighten the nut, the chain will pull slightly tighter so start with a little more play, clamp up the axle nut then check it. Adjust as required.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[shadywiki]

Dowsing the thing in WD and long bar did the trick in the end with loosening the nuts/bolts on the torque arm. All adjusted and back on the road.

Thanks all for your input.

[MCN]