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M8 *1.25 helicoil

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struan80
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Joined: 04 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 03 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
I prefer a much greater length and girth. If it doesnt make my eye water and I dont cry out in pain I'm not enjoying it. I don't normally bother with lube either.


Interference fit.
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recman
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 08 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-coil and RS are the two brands I use at work.
I was however, once supplied with a pack of 50 unknown brand 6mm coils from amazon, never had any problems with those.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 08 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The big question is, is it done yet? Or is he still procrastinating?

I know the feeling, I've been putting off tightening up the header nuts on Mrs stinkwheels CBR because I couldn't be arsed taking all the plastics off again. When it actually came down to it, the whole job only took half an hour.

Todays job of re-fabricating a chain guard for the Enfield will be less fun. It keeps eating them because I fitted a way larger gearbox sprocket so all the tabs need remaking at a different length and angle then welding on. Has to be a precision job too, there's only about 4mm clearance between the chain and frame at one point and I need to get a bit of 1.2mm steel in there without it rubbing on either.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 08 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Draper kit arrived yesterday and having driven the no.2 to Liverpool yesterday with all his kit (four bastard computers including the raspberry pi) for him to do his degree course I'm going to rest today. It was 7 hours driving.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 16 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little light on photos but no.1 son was assisting with the second sset of eyes and I didn't wwant to distract him with photo duties as well.


Tap and drill marked with suitable depth markings

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/2_210.jpeg

I found that at slow speed the drill kept snagging/biting even with copious oil so wound it up full in the end.

Plenty of oil added to the tap when it seemed to get slightly tighter (it was relatively effortless and I had to consciously use the back/forth rotation approach because it seemed so easy.)

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/whatsapp_image_2024-09-16_at_4.16.29_pm.jpeg

Thread insertion tool with thread. It literally just screwed it with the depth limiter adjusted for the insert so that it was flush or as near as damnit.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/3_159.jpeg

Thread inserted, with tang still in place.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/4.jpeg

Which was dealt with by these.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/5_213.jpeg

Finally checked my work by inserting one of the snapped studs.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/6.jpeg
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 16 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work Thumbs Up
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 16 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only took about 15 minutes (if that) as well.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 16 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Only took about 15 minutes (if that) as well.


Don't sell yourself short. You had a plan well mapped in your mind before picking up the tools.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 16 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Currently trying to decide whether I want to pay an extra £8 each to replace those last two shonky studs that are still in there. No doubts that they will come out easy, the other 4 did.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next question.

The studs that are correct fitment have flanges. What would be the drawback(s) if I use non-flanged ones that can be bought for a vast amount less and can be purchased with brass nuts?

Can they be frozen off the monkey?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't see what function those flanges would have. They don't seen to butt against the head. Unless the collar goes all the way down until it hits the flange and they're to stop you over-tightening the exhaust nuts and bending the collar?

I've seen a lot of motorbike exhaust studs and never seen one with a flange. Looking closer at your pictures, it also looks like they are necked down between the two threaded sections to the minor thread diameter which is an odd decision and a stress-riser. Not to mention extra work making them. I'd have expected them to snap there although it looks like they actually snapped into the threaded section.

Most studs I've ever seen are the major diameter for the full length with an unthreaded partion somewhere in the middle (with the exception of some Honda ones which have M8 into the head and M7 for the nuts, again for no apparent good reason other than maybe to encourage them to shear off so a little bit is still sticking out because M8-M8 ones fit fine).

If it was my bike, I'd fit conventional studs and engage my brain as I'm tightening the nuts.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't actually had the digital calliper on the outer part but on a visual inspection they appear to be M8 and offering up the head side of the stud to the holes in the exhuast showed they go through fine.

The collars are tough as fuck and thick metal, as is the rest of the exhaust so I can't see them bending.

I'm thinking do up the nuts to maybe slightly less than the recommended torque for the studs.

Advantage is I can get six studs and brass nuts for about a tenner opposed to the £60 quid for triumph stuff.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't overthink it. The job of the studs and how much you tighten them is to be just enough to flatten a crush washer and seal exhaust leaks. Beyond that heat expansion is all that's needed to stop things shaking loose when the engine's running.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recommended setting for the head nuts is only 19nm so thats a gnats whisker less than tweaked just right.

I have this thing referred to as a 'torque wrench' btw.

In fact I have two, 8-60nM and 60-300nM.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Time serts have a lip on the outside whhich will mean the stud would stick out fractionally more than it should.


Time sert kit includes a cutter to cut a recess so the lip doesn't protrude.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 20:52 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

That'll explain why they are so incredibly expensive compare to typical inserts.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's more to do with marketing, Snap-on and Wurth did a good job of it.
I generally use Helicoils, unlike Time-Sert they don't tend to wind out when you remove a fixing that has been in place for several years. If you screw up when fitting, you can pull them out with long nose pliers.

I have multiple kits made by Recoil and V-coil as well as cheap Chinese kits. The more expensive kits tend to be better quality (Recoil) and the really expensive (V-Coil, German made Stainless steel) kits come with everything including high quality drill bits but the cheap Chinese kits will do the job once you buy the drill bits which can be expensive in the incremental sizes needed.

I've recently been pointed in the direction of the JCB type insert kits which are a better Time-Sert type insert but cheaper.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 21:43 - 17 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no issues with the Draper kit, it's probably one of the easier jobs I've ever done.

Found the kit to be of robust quality and the cutting tools (drill bit and tap) up to their jobs.
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