Jump starting a bike from car/other bike

[Guest]

from this site:- https://www.batterycouncil.org/jumpstart.html


https://www.batterycouncil.org/images/jump.gif


1. Connect positive (+) booster cable to positive (+) terminal of discharged battery.

2. Connect other end of positive (+) cable to positive (+) terminal of assisting battery.

3. Connect negative (-) cable to negative (-) terminal of assisting battery.

4. MAKE FINAL CONNECTION OF NEGATIVE (-) CABLE TO ENGINE BLOCK OF STALLED VEHICLE, AWAY FROM BATTERY.

5. Start vehicle and remove cables in REVERSE order of connections.





The reason you connect to the dead battery first is to avoid sparks. If you've flattened your battery trying to start it then it'll be churning out a lot of Hydrogen.

If you connect the jump lead to the good battery and then to your flat battery you've got a voltage difference - 12 volts on the good 'un, 9 volts or less on your flat one.

Where you've got a voltage difference, you'll get a spark.

Add a spark to hydrogen and ......





Is this worth making a 'sticky'?

[Whosthedaddy]

very handy

[Finglonga]

But the sparks are pretty.
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Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.

[Guest]

[Bezzer]

Should add if you're starting a bike from a car then DON'T have the car engine running. Car alternator is normally much higher output and if you get a power spike then you can cook your bike electrics.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[Kickstart]

Hi

The ampage should not really matter. Amps are drawn through by the consuming item, not pushed through by the supplying item.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[kwacky]

I've always done mine via the wife's car with the engine running. Never had any problems [yet!]

[Bezzer]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Voltage is the same on the car and the bike. Both a nominal 12V going up to ~14V when charging heavily.

Only exception would be the few vehicles that use higher voltage electrical systems (eg, buses with 24V electrics), or against a 6V bike. In these cases you would fry the electrics irrespective of whether the engine is running or not.

Most likely way of causing damage is by connecting the -'ve wires first and then touching the +'ve wire to the frame while connecting it.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Guest]

[sickpup]

[FreshAL]

Help!

My SV battery is flat (i left the parking lights on, whata stupid idea they are)

What's the verdict? My mate tells me I'll fry the ignition if I jump it from a car?

[LustyLew]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Same here, done it loads of times without problems.

What quite possibly will cause a problem is connecting the leads up carelessly and touching the positive to the frame with the negative already connected (one good reason to connect the positive first and the negative 2nd).

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Superlight]

Agreed.
The one to watch is jumping car from car with the engine running. If the 'donor' battery is a bit weak, the alternator tries to kick out enough to power the starter, and that's not good It is possible to fry the alternator of the donor.
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You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move but should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move but does, use the Duct Tape.