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Economy riding.

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EDBANGER
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Joined: 05 May 2005
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Economy riding. Reply with quote

So then, whats the best gears and speeds to use to get the most out of your petrol?? Times is hard Shocked
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Sephiroth
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, push your bike down the road and hope some kind person gives you petrol.

Keep doing that Smile.


On a more serious note (slightly), turn your engine off when at lights for more than 20 seconds, ride in a higher gear etc...

I'd go for the free petrol idea myself Thumbs Up Mr. Green.
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killa
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Joined: 18 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go out looking for 80’s fords, siphon some petrol from them.
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Bendy
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got insane mileage from my CBR when sitting on the motorway at about 85 for ages (was about 7000rpm and I was barely accellerating or decellerating at all.

Reserve light usually comes on at about 130 with normal riding. Pulled into the petrol station showing 165 and still only managed to get £12 into it, so there was probably enough left to hit 200 if I'd kept cruising. Cool

So in short, cruising good, stop/go bad.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speed: 70mph
Gear: Neutral

Coasting 20 miles: FTW
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Rookie
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Joined: 09 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sephiroth wrote:

On a more serious note (slightly), turn your engine off when at lights for more than 20 seconds, ride in a higher gear etc...


Unless you were stopped for over a minute or so, I don't think that would be beneficial. Starting the bike uses a lot of fuel.

Also riding in a higher gear is good, if you're not labouring the engine. For example, doing 70 in 4th at 6k or so your fuel efficiency will be better if you're doing 70 in 6th, at 3.5k or whatever. But 30 in 6th, doing 1.5k is going to be very poor fuel efficiency.

The best tactic is to avoid hard acceleration and braking. If you see a junction or a hard corner coming up, just let the bike coast to it, instead of riding all the way up to it, and then braking. Apparently riding your bike like this gives you around 30% more mileage for the same amount of fuel. That's why cruising for long periods has this effect. In my car, I found I was getting about 200 miles to the tank (£35. Rolling Eyes ) When I went up to Nottingham, not stopping once on the way or the way back, I got about 330 miles to the tank.
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oddly just came back from a rally yesterday fully loaded.. my tank usually shows empty when i get to 100miles on the odometer.. but its still at halfway and ive done nearly 80 since the fillup on the way home...
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Simple
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

short shifting rather than revving out the engine before changing gear
constant throttle is usually best as opposed to stop start commuting.

I found with the NSR it was thirstier cruising at 80mph than hooning arund town, GPZ is the opposite it likes to short shift, low revs, pootling about. still out accelerat cars off lights etc unless they are attempting a race Rolling Eyes

Also make sure your chain is lubed up and correctly adjusted,
your brakes arn't binding on the disks /drum.

don't forget to go for a crap in the morning before you set out (weight saving and cheaper than carbon fibre) Laughing

simple
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

adopting a racing crouch everywhere? , wearing slick clothing , tieing up all lose straggly clothing and fastners,

losing weight

go slow

barely use the choke

set your carb to go lean (watch out for overheating problems + need new plugs regularly).

ride dangerously * (slip stream off lorries or skitch off them if you dare)

remove everything that serves no purpose , ie foot pegs for pillions
bar ends (watch out for white vibration finger and carpel tendon syndrome)

anticipation , using engine braking vs brakes , since shifting down turns your speed into revs rather than heat in the brakes.

using the tab on your helmet straps so the thing does not hand down and cause drag.

more later.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get about 76mpg at a steady 70 for an hour.

75miles cost me about 4.28

But start stop riding then its not as good.
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Simple
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:

remove bar ends (watch out for white vibration finger and carpel tendon syndrome)

more later.



I have both of those, and my bar ends are still attached Crying or Very sad

maybe if I remove them it will go away? Confused
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EDBANGER
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple wrote:
Itchy wrote:

remove bar ends (watch out for white vibration finger and carpel tendon syndrome)

more later.



I have both of those, and my bar ends are still attached Crying or Very sad

maybe if I remove them it will go away? Confused


You need heavier bar ends.
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Simple
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 15 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDBANGER wrote:
Simple wrote:



I have both of those, and my bar ends are still attached Crying or Very sad

maybe if I remove them it will go away? Confused


You need heavier bar ends.


It has huge ones as is, stock gpz ones... other than tie bricks to the bars..

though that would help limit the damage when dropped...hmm Thinking
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swanny
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PostPosted: 01:01 - 16 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

getting roughly 80mpg out of my er5.. riding away from lights and not racing it.. coasting into lights and sticking to speed limits in hihgest plausible gear..
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