2000 Blackbird not firing...

[P.]

FI Blackbird. Started on the button Monday, went to pick up yesterday after it had been dropped and nothing when you hit the starter, just click.

Put battery from other bike on there and its spinning over nice and fast, lights are bright but its not firing.

Sorry, I can't really give in depth analysis as I had no multimeter but other battery I used is on my daily runner, no FI codes come up on dash. I pushed it over a mile and have now fucked my back. Great start to new bike

[Aff]

[wots]

[P.]

Erm... well this is what it does.

Initially, dead battery, bump start, ran home for 3 miles fine, power started dropping off.

Pushed home.

Put ER5 battery on there, spinning over like a boss.

Pump primes, lights are bright.

Killswitch is in the run position, clutch is pulled in, turns over when left out also.

Interested in tilt sensor, but as it bumps, would this not rule that out.

Ta

[wots]

[P.]

New one fitted Saturday, only ran on Tuesday.

I am yet to take readings from reg rec as I cannot bump start it... gravel and 1/4 ton

[MaybeGuy]

ER5 batt not man enough.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[_Iain_]

[Pete.]

Reg rec output is largely irrelevant if it's cranking but not firing. Any bike that spins over at normal speed should have enough battery to start.
I'd check the fuel lines.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[mudcow007]

[MaybeGuy]

[Rigga]

[P.]

[_Iain_]

[G]

Have you checked the spark plugs definitely aren't sparking?

If that's the case, get ya' multimeter out and get tracing back along the engine run/kill wiring and see where it's going wrong.

[P.]

[Bezzer]

I'd still be looking at the battery first, being able to bump start it and run points to the electrical side including the fragile reg/rec being OK. You use some battery power getting an FI BB started, might have enough to light it up but not enough to get it to fire but bumping gives it that bit extra to get it going. Confirm it by using leads from a decent car battery, starts and it's both your batteries are not up to it, not starting then you can start checking all the other possibilities. The tilt switch allows it to spin over but not start BUT it also kills the fuel pump and you're hearing that click and prime so the tilt should be OK, give it a tap with a screwdriver anyway just to make sure, you can also bridge the red and green wires on it to bypass.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[P.]

The battery I am using is bigger than the current and is a hefty bugger in an ER5, would expect it to fire up instantly but I do have a car battery to use later.

If it does start, I'll let you all know but I have a feeling it will not

[_mjs_]

My CB500 had the exact same symptoms at one point and it turned out to be worn out brushes on the starter motor.

Also, pictures of this beast
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Previous Bikes: 2006 Honda XR125L > 2003 Yamaha DT125R > 1996 Honda CB500
Current bikes: 1997 Kawasaki ZZR 600 E5 > 2006 Honda Varadero XL125V

[P.]

Will not fire with a car battery.

Checked the main earth, cleaned frame and connectors, bolted back down.

Pump primes.

With key on + and - of battery have continuity... should that be so?

I am a right spaz with electrics so this is way over my head. Still not been able to get a spark plug out as they are buried underneath a plethora of plastic and wiring. I would hope it is just spark plugs, as the bike bumps (or at least did prior to me taking the rear plastic off) but then the battery was failing to charge.

Oh the joys...

Oh and pic... sorry, grabbed quick one before work.

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/image_zpsea6049da.jpeg

[Bezzer]

Plugs are a pain the first time but you soon get the knack, when you do them go in from the top NOT from the front like the manual says it's a lot easier. No need to take tank fully off either or disconnect any of the lines they are long enough to let you lift and rest the tank between the frame rails with some suitable padding, it's secure enough just make sure it's not too full.
See you've posted on BIRD about it which is the best place given all their odd foibles, make sure the loom fix has been done on it when you've sorted this problem.
https://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/mickcbr1100/misc/tankremoval_zps43c78a86.jpg
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[0l0dom0l0]

Have you tried turning the kill switch off and on again?

This sometimes resets the tilt sensor if it's gone off.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[P.]

Tried everything.

Resorted to the strip down...

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/bb/image_zps3836be2b.jpeg

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/bb/image_zps969afc2f.jpeg

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/bb/image_1_zps9a89a24c.jpeg

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/bb2/image_zps697def15.jpeg

https://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/paddynewman/bb2/image_1_zpse980b6a8.jpeg

Oh stator, you so crispy.

[doggone]

So was that caused by being gently dropped?

[Pete.]

Looks like it's been rubbing on the rotor. Are the windings actually knackered? They don't look it. Try a phase-to-phase ohm test.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good