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| steven_191 |
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 steven_191 Nearly there...

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| steven_191 |
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 steven_191 Nearly there...

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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 00:53 - 14 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

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| steven_191 |
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 Posted: 01:21 - 14 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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your the problem Chris  |
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| hmmmnz |
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 hmmmnz Super Spammer

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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

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| mad4it028 |
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 mad4it028 World Chat Champion

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| steven_191 |
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| steven_191 |
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| steven_191 |
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 steven_191 Nearly there...

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| Tim.. |
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 Tim.. World Chat Champion

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| KDub |
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 KDub Renault 5 Driver

Joined: 04 Sep 2010 Karma :     
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 Posted: 14:20 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Why would you want to lower the centre of gravity? It's better to leave it high.
Get ready for some propper engineering maths, taken from the book on Motorcycle Design and Technology:
(I'm going to use emoticons instead of real symbols though)
"There is only one precise angle of inclination that allows you to maintain your balance at any particular speed when cornering."
tan = v^2 / (R^2 x g)
Where is the lean angle, v is the velocity, R is the radius of the corner, and g is gravity (taken to be 9.81m/s^2, just use 9.81).
Of course in that equation there's no mention of the height of the centre of gravity, but you'll need the resullt of that equation for this one:
sin( ) = (t x sin ) / h - t
Where is a substitute for the symbol delta which means "the change in", t is the radius of the tyre (so a 160 size tyre has a radius of 80mm or 0.08m, there are further refinements to this, but I haven't learnt them yet), h is the height of the centre of gravity, and is the result of the first equation.
Once you've got both answers just add them together and you'll find out the lean angle required for any given corner radius at any given speed.
You'll need to use SI units throughout, as in metres and metres per second.
So anyway the point of all this is that a bigger value for the height of the centre of gravity results in a smaller change in lean angle, which means you can go faster around corners.
It also proves that skinny tyres are the way forwards, anyone "upgrading" to a 180 section tyre from anything smaller is just kidding themselves. Especially on small bikes. The only time you need a wider tyre is when you're prepared to sacrifice mid corner speed for traction on acceleration. |
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| steven_191 |
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| steven_191 |
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| KDub |
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 KDub Renault 5 Driver

Joined: 04 Sep 2010 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:18 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| steven_191 wrote: | KDub,,,
That's excellent. I'm not going to try and move the centre of gravity at all. The engine is going where it fits and where it's straight and square. One question I had was about tires actually. I was wondering what it is that goes into the choice? I think the mito has a 110/60 or 120/60 or something.
So in short and without too much maths with faces instead of symbols, what's your advice on the setup? And when u say inclination, are you talking about the angle of the bike and it's other angles etc. If you look at my picture it looks like the swing arm pivot is too high but because of the shape of the frame if the 'suspension' (bit of wood) compressed the high point touches the frame. So I need to drop the front down of not have much suspension travel or have a high bike??? |
There's a lot that goes into tyre choice, but ultimately it's a compromise between grip, lean angle, and cost. I would try and stick with what you have at the moment, if grip becomes an issue later on then it might be worth thinking about wider tyres or even better would be stickier rubber. Just out of interest, do you know how much power that engine's putting out?
Angle of inclination refers to the lean angle you're getting when cornering.
Frame geometry is complicated. I'd argue that the most important value to get right is the trail because it effects how quickly the bike falls into corners, round about 95mm is a good base to work off. If the forks you're using are roughly the same length as the stock forks, and the yokes have roughly the same offset then it shouldn't be too much of an issue. Just be really careful on the first ride, a lot of getting this right consists mainly of trial and error.
As for your swing arm, you want it sitting at somewhere between 10 and 12 degrees with nobody sitting on it. Most sport bikes seem to be around this mark. If it looks about right, then it probably is. When you say the swingarm touches the frame; where exactly and how much has the "suspension" compressed? You'll need to measure that between the mounting points, i.e. an uncompressed value, and a fully compressed value, and then work out the difference between the two; it the difference is more than your suspension can compress by then there's no problem.
Pictures of the suspension linkages would be a big help.
Don't let this put you off though, it's looking like a good project so far  |
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:25 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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| KDub wrote: | | steven_191 wrote: | KDub,,,
That's excellent. I'm not going to try and move the centre of gravity at all. The engine is going where it fits and where it's straight and square. One question I had was about tires actually. I was wondering what it is that goes into the choice? I think the mito has a 110/60 or 120/60 or something.
So in short and without too much maths with faces instead of symbols, what's your advice on the setup? And when u say inclination, are you talking about the angle of the bike and it's other angles etc. If you look at my picture it looks like the swing arm pivot is too high but because of the shape of the frame if the 'suspension' (bit of wood) compressed the high point touches the frame. So I need to drop the front down of not have much suspension travel or have a high bike??? |
There's a lot that goes into tyre choice, but ultimately it's a compromise between grip, lean angle, and cost. I would try and stick with what you have at the moment, if grip becomes an issue later on then it might be worth thinking about wider tyres or even better would be stickier rubber. Just out of interest, do you know how much power that engine's putting out?
Angle of inclination refers to the lean angle you're getting when cornering.
Frame geometry is complicated. I'd argue that the most important value to get right is the trail because it effects how quickly the bike falls into corners, round about 95mm is a good base to work off. If the forks you're using are roughly the same length as the stock forks, and the yokes have roughly the same offset then it shouldn't be too much of an issue. Just be really careful on the first ride, a lot of getting this right consists mainly of trial and error.
As for your swing arm, you want it sitting at somewhere between 10 and 12 degrees with nobody sitting on it. Most sport bikes seem to be around this mark. If it looks about right, then it probably is. When you say the swingarm touches the frame; where exactly and how much has the "suspension" compressed? You'll need to measure that between the mounting points, i.e. an uncompressed value, and a fully compressed value, and then work out the difference between the two; it the difference is more than your suspension can compress by then there's no problem.
Pictures of the suspension linkages would be a big help.
Don't let this put you off though, it's looking like a good project so far  |
The engine is 55bhp (claimed), also I believe the RS125 wheel that is on it atm has a 130 wide tyre.
My idea was to keep the geometry of the new build as similar as possible to a standard Mito. The swingarm is about 50mm shorter though so the wheel base will be shorter. ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

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| KDub |
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 KDub Renault 5 Driver

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| steven_191 |
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 steven_191 Nearly there...

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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 17:19 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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The RS swingarm was definately shorter, I'm pretty sure it was by 50 something mm. I vote we just cut bits off till it fits. Have you got your helicoil kit yet? ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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| steven_191 |
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 steven_191 Nearly there...

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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

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| MaybeGuy |
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 MaybeGuy Super Spammer

Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 18:28 - 16 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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i predict a fail unless you modify the frame crossbar around the carb. ____________________ Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 312 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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