oil drain plug repair

[at106]

Whilst waiting for electrical parts to arrive to make my suzuki ts50x run i've decided to repair a few more problems which i've come across.

The gearbox oil drain plug was leaking until i drained the oil from it, after cleaning the area i found that the area around the plug was cracked and it looks to have been previously repaired. The thread has also been repaired with helicoil.

https://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq202/at106/PICT0001-41.jpg

I'm looking for opinions on the best way to repair this. I dont have access to welding equiptment. I was thinking of using instant gasket silicone but i've read it breaks down sfter prolonged contact with oil.

Thanks in advance!

[Bru]

Many swear by JB Weld, which is a putty when applied; hardens to be relatively temperature-resistant, and is oil resistant too. You may find the best option (ie. bodge) is to clean the area around the plug with a good solvent (petrol, carb cleaner, white spirits, etc.) and scrubbing brush, and then massage up some putty and build it around the plug.

Be aware that the crack will still seep oil, although less so if you do the job in-between oil changes. This will affect how well the putty sticks to the metal. Try scoring the surface with a file to help the putty to key better to the metal. Work fast - the putty only has a few minutes before it begins to harden, which in this case is a minor bonus.

As to the effectiveness of the repair: that is down to you. All I know is, I have seen it used to seal a cracked waterpump casing, and that job has lasted years. Not pretty, though.

[at106]

[Drake]

or you can take the bike to a welder and let them weld it, if the engine comes out then its better as a tig will fry any electronic brain in the bike plus it will last
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was: derbi senda, aprilia sx125, nsr250 mc16, cagiva mito, cb600 hornet now: mk1 bandit, KR1S, landrover series 3 light weight 2.5 petrol, 5speed box

[BigGeeking]

yeah for what it is takes. welders you dont want to be dripping oil on the tread path to your back wheel then run you engin dry of oil then bang.
get it welded also i dont want to ride over your oil
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Bendy "Flip front. I can filter down the M4 while shoving a Twix in my face."
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MOD 1 ON 20/7/2011**passed** MOD 2 ON 17/10/2011***passed***,,

[MickC]

Jb Weld is the cheaper option, it does take a couple of days to set though. Having said that you can file and sand it afterwards to get a really good finish, i have used it in the past to repair broken engine fins so heat is no problem, and as already said by 'Bru' it is oil and petrol resistant. Just make sure the area is good and clean and free from paint.
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[Bru]

DO NOT use a blowlamp to cook off the residue around the crack!!

2-stroke engines have a mixture of oil and PETROL in their crankcase = BOOM!

OK, so it may be the gearbox section but still - I reckon NO.

[Drake]

[jimbothe]

JB weld is for amateurs.

Use quicksteel, the epoxy of the gods.

https://www.hemmingsdiy.co.uk/quickste.htm

I have used this many times and it's got myself and plenty of mates right out of the poo from gashed engine casings to blown exhausts to sump repairs.

Search the net and I'm sure you'll agree.
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[Pete.]

Before it's welded all that crap is going to have to be ground out of it with a die grinder.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[at106]

If i could get it welded i would but i can't find anywhere local that can do it. I'll have a look for quicksteel and i'll either use that or JB weld. And if it doesn't hold then i'll look at getting it welded.

So is it a bad idea using a blow lamp to clean up the area?

[jimbothe]

[Pete.]

No, but do it outside and watch you don't get it too hot because it will go from engine casing to soggy blob on the floor in the blink of an eye.

Get some normal soap and rub it on the casing. Watch for the soap turning black.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[temeluchus]

Give the area a thorough clean with solvents and allow to dry before applying the jbweld etc. Brake cleaner is a good one to use for this.

Make sure you let the epoxy set for at least 24 hours.

I have had carburettor float bowls held together with plastic metal, superb stuff.
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[ZRX61]