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Is the Ninja 650r suitable and can I get a used on for £2000

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markk21
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Joined: 25 Feb 2014
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PostPosted: 04:01 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Is the Ninja 650r suitable and can I get a used on for £2000 Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum and completely new to the world of biking. I have wanted a bike for many years but just haven't been able to afford it.

However my brother will likely need a car from September for the year as he will be on a placement as part of his Uni course and the costs of running my car are just crazy. I have yet to ride any sort of motorbike but I hope in the summer I can go from complete novice to passing the test and getting the A2 licence. I am trying to decide on what bike would be best for me. My budget is £2000 but I may.. and I stress may, be able to stretch to £2500.

I have always liked Kawasaki Ninjas and after a good few weeks of research the two bikes that seem good are the Ninja 250 and the 650. They both seem to be a similar price but the price does seem to be £2250 and up. Would I be able to get either bike for lower than that? I know I would have to restrict the 650, any ideas how much that would cost to do?

Anyway, I hope that made some sense and I look forward to enjoying this forum!

Thanks,

Mark
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Yanks call the 650cc twin bike a "Ninja 650". Over here, it's an ER6-f.

Yes, you can restrict it for a 35kW A2 license (the Ninja ZX-6R 636 is not suitable). You can (just) get them for £2K now. There are plenty around. Watch out for blowing exhausts and fractured engine mounts.

You'll need to budget:

~£120 for a CBT

£121.50 for tests (theory, mod 1, mod 2) plus possible resits.

£300 - £600 for training, entirely depending on the training school and how quickly you pick it up.

Helmet, gloves, jacket, trousers (jeans are the chocolate teapot of protection), sturdy boots = £150+ if you buy used from eBay / Gumtree. Buy the helmet new!
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ninja Laughing Laughing Laughing


They love a bit of marketing tosh over in yanksvile don't they Laughing
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

But it is a Ninja Crying or Very sad

If you find one for cheaps, it's probably dodgy or damaged. I think the cheapest one I saw (in a dealership) was just under £3000 and it had been dropped.
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Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP would be better off looking at another bike of similar power / style / engine (whichever drew you to that bike).

i.e. cbr 600f vs. thundercat

for the same money as scaping the worst of the bottom of the barrel f the newer ones, you'll get a MUCH better example of the earlier model
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither of those bikes are suitable for the A2 license.

There are relatively few fully faired bikes that are.

ER6-f
XJ6 Diversion F
GSX650F
SV650S with fairing lowers
400 twins.
CBR500R
Ninja 250/300.
GS500
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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markk21
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always thought you could say 250r/650r as well. I find it easier to remember 650r/250r/300r and so on, rather than ER-6f, so I'll just stick to that.

I have budgeted the costs and for a £2500 bike it costs about £300 less than my current costs. That includes purchase costs, test, mot, gear etc. There is also the £1500 (at least) to include, which would be the costs of buying my brother a car. That makes the overall costs for the car £2000 extra versus the bike. The running costs over the year versus the car save me over £3000! The only main driving I will be doing is a 20 mile round trip, two days a week. Apart from that it will only be to the shops, library at Uni, on odd occasions and then just riding on a nice sunny day around Kent.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkK21 wrote:
There is also the £1500 (at least) to include, which would be the costs of buying my brother a car..


https://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/000/045/n725075089_288918_2774.jpg
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guile
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get an 06/07 for just under £2000 if you haggle with private buyers on ebay. Don't bother with dealers. Restrictor kit cost about £15 - it is basically a screw which even the noobest of riders could fit themselves.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

guile wrote:
Restrictor kit cost about £15


lolwut.jpg x 2.

It is just a bolt, if you pay 15 quid for it you're getting done. Go to the hardware shop and buy one for 5p.

Also I sold my ER6 last year for £1700 and it had a B1H front end on it. The MK1's should be easy to get for under 2 grand.
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guile
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
It is just a bolt, if you pay 15 quid for it you're getting done. Go to the hardware shop and buy one for 5p.


But the official kit includes a thing (not sure what it's called) that remaps the fuel consumption.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkK21 wrote:
The running costs over the year versus the car save me over £3000!

Including tyres, chains, sprockets, brakes, oil and filters?

Biking is really a heart rather than a head (or wallet) thing, particularly beyond 125. That said, I would encourage you to go for it. ER6-f will be fine, but do check for those cracks.

Thing is, you'll be in a far better position to decide once you've passed your tests and know what you like and don't like about the training bike.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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markk21
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff - I either didn't explain myself correctly or you didn't read my original post. I said that my brother needs a car for this September and the costs of running my car are too high. Put both those things together and you'll see that my brother would get my car and I would get a bike, therefore saving money through the combination of not buying a car for my brother/continuing to run my car and saving a staggering amount on annual running costs. If I were to keep my car and my brother were to buy at least a £1500 car, it would cost my Dad almost £7000 compared to under £4500 for the bike.

Roger - I've put a maintenance budget of £100 aside. Is that figure too low?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

guile wrote:

But the official kit includes a thing (not sure what it's called) that remaps the fuel consumption.


Which is just a piece of wire inside a fancy connector which shorts 2 pins, can be achieved with a paperclip.

MarkK21 wrote:
Aff - I either didn't explain myself correctly or you didn't read my original post. I


I read it, but it doesn't explain why you have to buy your brother a car.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When did your dad come into it?!


Also, I was told by the dealer that the restrictor is a throttle-stop and an ECU plug-in combined. Apparently they need to remove a lot of plastic to get it in too.
Then again, this could have been a sales pitch. They ended up fitting it for free anyway though.
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Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkK21 wrote:
Roger - I've put a maintenance budget of £100 aside. Is that figure too low?

Depends on your mileage. Have a look at parts prices.

New budget brake pads all round, oil, filters, budget chain and sprocket and two budget tyres will run you £285 in parts, minimum, before you lift a spanner.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

dydey90 wrote:

Also, I was told by the dealer that the restrictor is a throttle-stop and an ECU plug-in combined. Apparently they need to remove a lot of plastic to get it in too.
Then again, this could have been a sales pitch. They ended up fitting it for free anyway though.


Nah, unless you have giant hands you can get to it through the gap in the fairing and the plug to be shorted is just under the seat, takes about 30 seconds.

I never ran a restrictor through my restriction period, and I made sure I could so this just in case.
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markk21
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 25 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dydey - My Dad will help me with the costs towards purchasing the bike.

Roger - I would be doing roughly between 2,000 and 3,000 miles per year

Aff - My Dad would have to buy my brother a car for next September. It looks like it would be cheaper for him to buy me a used bike and give my brother my car.
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wots
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 05 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've only just seen this. Regarding the restriction kit, and I have one here. It is indeed a small torx screw as a throttle stop and a plug that shorts something in the diag port, which apparently limits torque.

It is so easy, I rode up to the test centre restricted, undid one screw on the panel, removed torx screw (magnetised screwdriver is essential) and then removed diag connector. Pushed bike in to the test centre, passed test and then rode off. I was going from restricted to full A.

It has to be the easiest restriction kit to fit/remove.
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